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Barrelman; A Study in Excellence
by Christine Woodhouse

Barrelman is an endearing alcove on the corner of Peachtree and Fifth Streets, filled with hand-selected wines, 50 assorted cheeses, olive oils and other specialty foods. The appeal here is not in mass inventory, rather in the personal touch of a well-researched selection. Most surprising are the prices. Far from extravagant, almost every bottle falls in the $10-$20 range.

Now open for two years, Barrelman was born from Eno – the restaurant/wine bar next door. With the number of accolades Eno consistently receives for its wine selection, it was only natural to create a specialty store spin-off. Doug Strickland has been running Eno since 1999 with a purist’s approach to food and a penchant for old world wine. He opened Barrelman under the same philosophy that has kept Eno at the top of critics’ lists. Strickland lets the earth and the ingredients dictate his choices.

“Our wines are primarily fruit and terroir driven, so they express the earth and the elements from their origin,” says Strickland.

In the restaurant, this means local ingredients formulate the menu. In the wine shop, it means organic European wines are favored (mostly Mediterranean varietals originating in Spain, Greece, France and Italy). Realizing that not everyone shares his old world palate, Strickland ensures that Barrelman carries a fair amount of new world wines as well. However, even this broader-based selection of wines comes only from quality producers. Strickland is constantly tasting different wines to cull out the highest quality price ratio in the market. Through constant research, winery visits and vintner interviews, he stays on top of the many complex and fickle grape varietals to find the most balanced wines at the best prices for his shop. Whether it’s $7 or $70, every bottle of wine at Barrelman is balanced – a distinct advantage over more massive wine retailers.

Strickland labors at pairing these wines with the food at Eno, which is why he tends towards old world varietals. Because of their higher acid level and earthier taste, European wines are better suited to accompany food. However, there are exceptions to every rule (and wine pairing has many) so fans of U.S., South American, South African, Australian, New Zealand and other new world wines need not despair.

Connoisseurs and novices alike can take advantage of Strickland’s wine expertise by joining the Barrelman club. Mostly known for its wine tastings, the club also offers a newsletter, cellaring privileges, preferred pricing on retail wine purchases, access to special Barrelman pours at the wine bar, and more. And cheese lovers, get ready to salivate. A club of your own is about to be unveiled as well. To compliment the wine, the cheese club will offer tastings and introduce specialty food products like olive oils, tapenades and other zesty treats.

Barrelman is located at 800 Peachtree Street, Atlanta, GA 30308. (404) 228-8817 or visit online at www.barrelman-winesbyeno.com

Wine expert and proprietor Doug Strickland.