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| The Perfect Glass by Doc Lawrence Not many wine writers have the opportunity to duplicate a famous, well-publicized experiment conducted by Robert Mondavi in 1989. A few days ago, at the Arizona Biltmore Resort in Phoenix, I was led virtually through the same tasting steps Mondavi took under the direction of famed revolutionary crystal wine stemware artisan George Riedel which forever change America’s most important winemaker’s belief about the importance of the quality of container used to enjoy fine wine. Instead of George, my journey was under the guidance of the crystal maker’s son, Maximilian Riedel, a tall, stately and quite articulate spokesperson for his family’s business which dominates the world wineglass market, producing some 5.1 million lead-crystal wine glasses a year. Riedel stemware graces the cabinets in the homes of countless wine lovers and restaurants and wine makers everywhere have adopted them as mandatory for elevated enjoyment. Back to the Mondavi experiment. At first skeptical about Riedel’s claims that his stemware, which is uniformly 24 percent lead, enhances the taste of wine, George Riedel poured sample amounts from Mondavi’s most heralded releases into Riedel stemware and other wine glasses. Mondavi who proclaimed, “the results were unbelievable”, tasted each. He subsequently ordered that wines poured at his wineries be exclusively served using Riedel crystal wine glasses. Along with a packed room of wine writers and enthusiasts, I went through essentially the same steps Mondavi took in 1989, and swiftly arrived at the same conclusion. With no hesitation, my notes demonstrate that every Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Meritage, Zinfandel, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon had a vastly improved nose with a richer, more profound taste experience when using the appropriate Riedel wineglass. In most cases, the ordinary stemware — glasses you almost always are provided in a local restaurant when ordering expensive wine — revealed the wine to have concentrated foul odors combined with dull flavors and unpleasant textures on the tongue. Maximilian Riedel, in a rare post-demonstration interview, confided to me that “if you choose our glasses correctly, even inexpensive wines will always be much more enjoyable.” He explained that Riedel makes crystal stemware according to well-researched design to deliver the best-known varietals “in a manner that will accentuate fragrance and the wine’s essential taste components.” Like Robert Mondavi years ago, I eliminated my skepticism using the best method of all: pouring, observing, swirling, smelling and tasting. Riedel is correct. There are verifiable reasons why wine enjoyment is so dramatically increased. “The bowl is deeper than ordinary wineglasses,” Mr. Riedel explained, “and the mouth of the glass varies according to the varietal. Our stems are long for aesthetic reasons, and this also discourages holding the glass by the bowl which will heat the wine and diminish the quality of the experience.” Riedel crystal stemware is expensive. But, acceptable wine can strain the budget as well. The argument for investing in something so elegant and extraordinary is multifaceted. These wineglasses are permanent and valuable items of beauty and utility. Since no right-minded person would ever place them in a dishwasher, they will likely be around for future use. Serving yourself, your lover or friends a wine that has importance to you in such a magnificent glass suggests that you care deeply and have invested thought and money to make the wine and food a memorable event. Wine is an integral component of the celebration of dining. It is a very personal salute to the art of love and friendship and serves as a symbol of how we value ourselves and those we cherish. Most of us dine with well-chosen china and tableware. We owe it to ourselves to use the same care in our wineglasses. And, if Robert Mondavi proclaims that Riedel produces the finest crystal stemware, I’m not about to argue. Besides, I convinced myself and I am now spoiled rotten. Serve me a glass from a bottle I paid over $50 dollars for in a thick glass goblet with detergent residue, and I will now object and ask the Sommelier or manager to provide a suitable glass, and I never shy away from asking for Riedel. Nor should you. Every decent wine retailer I know sells Riedel crystal stemware. So do all quality department stores. It is wildly popular and for good reason. The wine tastes better when consumed from a Riedel wineglass. That’s one thing Robert Mondavi and I cheerfully agree on. EDITOR’S NOTE: Doc Lawrence regularly takes our readers on a wine journey as he participates in prestigious wine events throughout the land. His observations and exceptional storytelling ability have earned him the distinction of being one of our preeminent wine writers. Doc welcomes reader inquiries and comments. E-mail him: doclawrence@mindspring.com. |
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