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| Wine & Food In The Big Easy| by Doc Lawrence There is just no place like New Orleans. Europe in America. And still the most southern large city we have. Creole, Caribbean, French and Italian cuisine coexist quite comfortably with traditional foods like grits. I have enjoyed grits at some of the world’s most renowned New Orleans’ restaurants, where they are not described as polenta. More often than not, I’ve had them with that quintessential meat dish, grillades, all washed down by indescribably great wines. We’re here again to talk about wine and food, New Orleans-style. My heart somehow survived my annual visit to the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience as a media guest, and I confess that with the exception of the London International Wine Festival, it is the best of the best. Besides, what better place on earth could you hold such an event? You can actually walk everywhere and if you want to travel, there’s the streetcar (which I take up St. Charles to Carrolton to visit the divine boutique, Yvonne LeFluer, enjoy champagne with the gorgeous models and leave after purchasing some exquisite gifts for the ladies, including a bottle of Yvonne’s signature perfume for someone special). The New Orleans Wine and Food Experience has been around long enough now to claim some well-deserved pedigree. This is not an easy production because it is in a city where food and wine standards are very high. Mediocrity would swiftly be laughed out of town. Charging exorbitant fees for a splash of popular-label wine accompanied by unimaginative finger food all served in plastic won’t sell here in the Big Easy. But, purveyors from the four corners of wine making, offering their finest to a genuinely sophisticated assemblage of patrons sparked enthusiasm and promoted wine sales, particularly when accompanied by Dixieland Jazz and food from this city’s legendary kitchens. Instead of holding the event in a fortress environment, the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience immerses patrons and media in the culture of this remarkable city. Beginning with the spectacular vintner’s dinner at the incomparable Broussard’s on Rue Conti in the French Quarter, everyone knew that expectations of things to come should be set much higher. What, we whispered, would be next and what could possibly be better? Our questions were soon answered. The Royal Street Stroll, like everything of quality with this function, traditionally begins with a press party at Brennan’s, the multiple award-winning restaurant that is synonymous with the glamour, luxury and tastefulness associated with New Orleans upper scale lifestyle. After stuffing ourselves with shrimp, oysters, crabmeat and other delicacies accompanied by fine wine chosen by cellar master Harry Duncan from Brennan’s huge, on-premises cellar (the largest in the US, including Bern’s in Tampa which houses its thousands of bottles in another location), I visited the truly great art galleries and antique furniture stores on this most walkable thoroughfare, and found a few treasures to send home. Lunch was held the next day at the New Orleans Museum of Art, one of the best in the country. Great wine accompanied more superb food in the romantic setting of a room adorned with priceless masterpieces. This served as a reminder to the uninitiated that New Orleans is much more than Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest. It is a city where the arts thrive and cultural preservation is considered a prime responsibility of the community. Thursday evening in the Big Easy was capped off by a signature party (didn’t partying originate in New Orleans?), at Muriel’s at Jackson Square. With the weather being tolerable, the affair was appropriately held outdoors under a glorious Louisiana sky where guests again were treated to culinary excellence along with an array of more great wines Friday and Saturday are “working days”, which meant attending meaningful seminars where speakers were acknowledged experts, and included renowned vintners, chefs and commentators. The concentration this year was much more on Champagne than in previous years and enthusiasm dominated. After all, how can a civilized modern American ever learn enough about this regal and romantic wine? Leadership at the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience is what really makes this worthwhile and increasingly successful. Tim McNally heads this cause célèbre and he summarized what makes this special and better. Here’s my pal Tim with words just for our Atlanta readers: “No other event celebrates its local cuisine and ties it so closely to the winemaker’s art. We combine our favorite dishes from our great chefs, all served at our Grand Tastings. In a freeway-infested universe, littered with neon signs of same as next-door establishments, New Orleans fosters creativity—variations on a theme--based upon what comes from our soils and waters. Our rich gumbo of blended cultures permeates everything here, including our plates and stemware. Our heritage is protected, and, as our friends in the great city of Atlanta know, we really can throw a party!” EDITOR’S NOTE: Doc Lawrence is a recognized force in today’s emerging wine culture and he regularly attends the world’s most prestigious wine and food events. “I simply can’t suppress my love for all that is so wonderful about New Orleans. I urge every wine event planner to take lessons from the officials of the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience. I believe, with effort, you can duplicate excellence.” Comments for Doc: doclawrence@mindspring.com. |
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