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| Wine Treasures from Alsace by Doc Lawrence It has been over two years since the death of Jim Sanders, Buckhead’s renowned French wine merchant and importer. And, as widely believed even at that sad moment, no one since his passing has stepped forward to even attempt to take Sanders’ place. But, there remains his invaluable class notes which formed the foundation for Sanders’ legendary wine seminars, and this remarkable document is as useful today as is was over the many years of Sanders’ expert instruction to countless lawyers, physicians, politicians, housewives and others who found a new and lovely world of wine opened as a direct benefit of Mr. Sanders’ shared wisdom and experience. Although Sanders had an admitted affinity and preference for the red wines of Burgundy, he also had a sophisticated, well-developed palate, and when certain foods clearly called for something off the beaten path, Sanders, a traditionalist, would astutely move towards the most suitable wine without flinching. The guy really knew his chosen field and he performed the ceremony of wine selection within the context of food pairing with the aplomb and subtlety of a true master. Among Jim Sanders’ favorite white wines, according to his lecture notes were those from the French province of Alsace, a thin district in a corner of France across the Rhine River from Germany. This border, Sanders would explain, was not all Alsace had in common with Germany. Both regions plant the same grape varietals — almost exclusively whites — but the resulting wines are different. The German wines are low in alcohol and tend to be sweet while most Alsatian wines are higher in alcohol and are commonly dry. What makes Alsatian wines attractive to diners and enthusiasts is the combination of excellence in production of the wine and the exceptional value. “It would be very challenging,” Sanders said in a discussion a year before his death, “to find another assemblage of great French white wines that are near perfect with foods ranging from seafood and pork to poultry at such impressively low prices.” Sanders was committed to wines that are food friendly and always rated Alsatians among the very best. The Alsatian wines most readily available are Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner and Gewurztraminer. They are ready for consumption upon release and their appeal is based more on their delicate expression of fresh fruit rather than ageing in oak barrels. Pinot Gris (yes, this is the same grape known as Pinot Grigio in Italy and Oregon, but Jim Sanders firmly believed the French version to be vastly superior on the grounds that the soil in Alsace gave this wine a distinctive character that the Italians and Americans were unable to duplicate) is an almost perfect aperitif. Likewise, Riesling, an amazingly versatile wine, functions nicely as an aperitif but also pairs exceptionally well with ham, fowl, shellfish and fresh seafood. And, if you find Chinese or other Asian food as a difficult cuisine for wine matching, Gewurztraminer is a likely solution. Pinot Blanc is the lightest of the Alsatians and is bone dry. Unlike all other French wines, Alsatian wines are found in a thin tall bottle resembling their German relatives. All authorities I’ve researched designate Trimbach as a notable Alsatian wine producer. Jim Sanders held Trimbach in high esteem and kept his eye-level retail shelves well stocked with their superior wines. And, my personal experience with Trimbach wines confirms a continuation of its long-standing commitment to the highest winemaking standards. With all the good news from Alsace, be prepared for disappointment if you are looking for an Alsatian wine anywhere beyond a good retail wine shop. It is rarely found in most restaurants in this region, a continuing reminder that we are still mired in and struggling to get out of the shackles of California Chardonnay. A few restaurants, however, march out of step with the sometimes senseless demands of consumers driven more by advertising and peer pressure rather than common sense. Mercifully, upper-scale establishments like Decatur’s Atlantic Star and Vinings’ Canoe, will have an Alsace on their list, sometimes by the glass. The best way I’ve found to enjoy a great Pinot Gris or Riesling from Alsace came from some sage advice volunteered by the fabulously talented young Atlanta-based artist Jon Nix. “Go to Grandma’s French Café on Ocean Drive in Fort Lauderdale,” he said. “The owners are from Paris, the cuisine is divine and you can bring your own wine free of charge.” Of course, I followed Mr. Nix’ counsel. The Trimbach Riesling was a superb match with the veal meatloaf; garlic mashed potatoes and Romaine salad. The next time, I will have escargot with a crisp bottle of Pinot Blanc and quietly toast to that greatest of all wine teachers, Jim Sanders. Editors Note: Sips Along The Way, Doc Lawrence’s thoughtful wine commentary, is now firmly established and has become one of this publication’s most anticipated regular features. It is also the longest running wine column in the state. Doc welcomes the inquiries he receives almost daily. You may contact him anytime at doclawrence@mindspring.com. |
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