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| A Perfect Marriage - Oysters and Wine by Doc Lawrence It was almost too good to be true. One rather lazy and unusually quiet afternoon, I noticed a strange e-mail. These days, the strange ones are rarely treasures, but just more junk mail and clutter, the same garbage that once filled every street mail box beyond capacity. But, this one was different. And, it was loaded with welcome news. The message announced the results of a delightful wine with oysters pairing competition held recently in Washington State. While I regularly eat oysters on the half shell with my own selections of wine, I’m not so sure this is yet a fast growing trend in these environs. And, I hasten to concede that there is a growing sophistication with wine and food combinations highlighted by the noble efforts of some select restaurants and the leadership of a handful of chefs, writers and commentators. I go back to my college undergraduate days at FSU in the heart of the Florida Panhandle where the mighty oyster reigns supreme. With a searing sauce made of catsup, horseradish and lemon juice, I, and thousands of other land lovers, learned to remove the freshly shucked oyster from its shell, place it on a saltine cracker, cover it with the fiery sauce and devour it usually in one bite. The magic, though, was the cold beer to “wash it down”, an almost obligatory ritual that to this day is one of my most precious memories from four year’s of social and academic adventure. This oysters and beer ceremony was (and still is) repeated throughout the southern coast from New Orleans to Mobile, Destin to Savannah, Myrtle Beach to Virginia Beach and on up to D.C. and beyond. Why would anyone want to go and change one of America’s great epicurean events? There are many good reasons and each is valid. One is the unfortunate decline in quality of most oysters from southern waters. This isn’t a health column, and I believe in minding my own business, but I’m skittish about a raw oyster that has grown to maturity in environmentally questionable areas. If I actually ate one (which I no longer will uncooked) I would wash it down with a proven germicide. Next is the nature of certain wines, which since time immemorial have been consumed with oysters because they fit together perfectly. (I digress. It was Jonathan Swift who wrote “ . . . ‘twas a brave man indeed that ‘et the first oyster.” I will forever recall the horror of my first glance at that lifeless beige/gray glob, and the serious concern that I would not survive ingesting such a creature. How gloriously wrong I was!). Beer, while still a marvelous accompaniment has never been the sole oyster beverage, however. Wine preceded beer in this regard and it may well be on its way to become the beverage of choice among oyster eaters. The “2002 Oyster Award” is a competition with the goal of selecting those wines that go very well with gourmet oysters. The oysters were Kumomato harvested by Taylor Shellfish Farms of Shelton, Washington. The winning wines were from California, Oregon, Washington with one Canadian making the final selection. They were predominantly Sauvignon Blanc, with a couple of Pinot Gris and one dry Chenin Blanc. All in all, a perfect combination of wine and mollusks. I, however, believe that integrity requires some independent judgment. Accordingly, I obtained a requisite number of Kumomoto oysters from Taylor Shellfish Farms (and, I would be remiss not to tell the world that I have never before enjoyed anything their equal. I could taste the Pacific Ocean in each and they required no sauces at all). My wine selection was completely French, consisting of three great whites for the Loire Valley; Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume (which are 100% Sauvignon Blanc) and a Muscadet. The other two were a dry Riesling from Alsace and Premier Cru Chablis, exceptional white Burgundy and the only Chardonnay in the group on my table. I submit that any of these would give a west coast white wine all it could handle in an oyster pairing competition. My favorite is the Pouilly-Fume with the flinty flavor and mineralness that works magic with a dozen on the half shell. But, any higher-end Sauvignon Blanc or unoaked Chardonnay will get you on your way to oyster heaven. With spring in full bloom and the leisure and enjoyment of longer days, lighter foods and white wines take on a new meaning. Oysters and wine have been consumed together since the days of Julius Caesar, and they are even more popular today. EDITOR’S NOTE: Doc will gladly share his list of Atlanta restaurants that feature Kumomato oysters with a selection of fine and appropriate wines .Contact him at doclawrence@mindspring.com. |
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