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WOODFIRE GRILL ~ upscale casual ****1/2
1782 Cheshire Bridge Road
ATLANTA, GA 30324
(404) 347-9055

Longtime Atlanta restaurateur Michael Tuohy is back with a ravishing eatery on funky Cheshire Bridge Road. Northern California meets the Mediterranean and yes, the big wood grill turns out luscious meats and seafood. Casual and affordable, Woodfire Grill is a welcome addition to the dining scene, offering thoughtful, well-prepared food without fuss.

MENU: ****1/2
The menu offers a wide selection of intriguing dishes that changes daily. From sautéed skate wings to wood-fired pizzas, marinated anchovies, wood-grilled chicken and a well-selected and affordable wine list, you’ll want to bring friends and share small plates and tastes.

FOOD QUALITY: *****
Tuohy was an early, vocal supporter of the organic and artisan farmer, and makes good use of in-season produce, and local and regional products, including cheese, seafood and fowl. He’s also acquired the best of imported items.

FOOD PRESENTATION: *****
Like the menu, the food is honest and stellar on its own. Don’t expect anything showy in the way of decoration. The plating is appropriate, the portions right-on.

ATMOSPHERE: ****
The neighborhood leaves a bit to be desired, and the entrance into the restaurant can be hazardous. But the minute you open the carved wooden door, you are transported into a warm and inviting two-story space lit by myriad white candles. Burnished walls, copper accents, leather and chrome furniture complete the “nuevo-medieval” look. Beware – It can be noisy on crowded nights.

CLEANLINESS: *****
From the climate-controlled cheese-ripening cabinet to the bathrooms and kitchen, the entire place is well-tended.

SERVICE: *****
The mature hostess and wait staff are well-trained. They are efficient, knowledgeable and genuinely excited about guiding you through the menu choices. When it is busy, your server may be stretched a bit thin, but the good-natured attitude goes a long way.

MENU RECOMMENDATIONS:
Quickly fried, velvety Canadian smelts – a simple, rustic dish that exemplifies Tuohy’s finest efforts – is a winner. The salad of earthy roasted beets with chevre is a pleasure, while mushroom soup is a savory bouillon-like liquid loaded with various meaty funghi. The musky, seared foie gras melts in your mouth whether you cut its richness with the accompanying quince or enhance it with marmalade.

The wood-grilled Kobe flatiron steak is richly marbled and memorable. The cedar-planked snapper is also a standout, retaining its moisture and boasting an intensive woody flavor. The risotto with scallops and porcini mushrooms is the only weak spot (It wasn’t quite hot enough for me).

Local cheese guru Raymond Hook presides over his signature courses, which are enticing. Finish with maple pot de crème, a lovely, light concoction topped with blueberry preserves and served with shortbread.

OVERALL RATING: ****1/2
The raves are well deserved, for this is a nearly unqualified success. A cozy ambiance paired with intelligent service and honest, straightforward food equals a place you’ll seek out for quiet tête-à-têtes or business dinners.

review by Suzanne Wright
from top:
Marinated roasted peppers, white anchovies & cured olives; Cedar planked arctic char with warm arugula-slow roasted tomato salad; (l-r) Chef Michael Schardan, owner /chef Michael Tuohy, pastry chef Patti Roth; Chocolate passion fruit baked alaska, toasted marshmallow creme with fresh passion fruit.