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| TWIST ~ casual trendy ***1/2 3393 Peachtree Road Atlanta, Georgia 30326 (404) 364-9360 Veteran Atlanta restaurateur Tom Catherall’s latest culinary offering is a tapas bar/sushi bar/Asian-fusion eatery in upscale Phipps Plaza. Lit like a nightclub with loads of sleek surfaces, it’s abuzz with a mixed crowd. The bar attracts model-types and the men who hunt them, while the dining room has tables of shopping families and single-gender groups. Let’s just say the food isn’t the only draw. MENU: **** This menu is literally all over the map. There is plenty of variety no matter what you're in the mood for. FOOD QUALITY: **** Seafood is fresh, desserts are home made. FOOD PRESENTATION: **** Dishes arrive swiftly but in no particular order, and everything looks ravishing on mod white plates in myriad shapes. ATMOSPHERE: *** When crowded, there’s plenty of noise. This is a “see and be seen” type of restaurant, so don’t expect cozy banquettes. The most striking feature is a semi-circular bar with a cascade of light rippling on a silver metal curtain that looks like it’s made of ball-bearings and rises to perhaps nine or ten feet. CLEANLINESS: *** The kitchen looks clean and tables are bussed frequently. SERVICE: *** Although sometimes Twist is very busy, servers are attentive and make you feel comfortable. MENU RECOMMENDATIONS: The lean, nicely chargrilled Korean BBQ beef with kim chee is flavorful, and the fried calamari with lemon aioli is tender. Grilled miso salmon wrap isn’t really a wrap, but the fish is perfectly cooked. The aromatic smell of lemongrass curry broth makes me swoon, but the shrimp dumplings have too-thick wrappers and are lacking flavor. Better to spring for the $29 lobster Shanghai, which is bathed in a creamy ginger curry with just the right fire and tasty fried spinach leaves. The sashimi tuna pizza with wasabi mayo has a nice thin crust, but it’s a challenge to actually find the tuna. The squid and yellowtail sushi are admirable. OVERALL RATING: ***1/2 If you are in the mall and hungry, popping in for a bite and a $5 martini makes sense. review by Suzanne Wright |
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| from top: Sashimi tuna pizza and wasabi mayo; Giant Spanish prawns with white bean ragout; Peter Kaiser and Tom Catherall; Swiss choc. fondue, fresh fruit, shortbread and truffles. |
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