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| TAMARIND ~ nice casual ***** 80 14th Street Atlanta, GA 30309 (404) 873-4888 Charlie and Nan Niyomkul own midtown’s family-operated Thai star restaurant, Tamarind. Charles is a bon vivant without peers among ethnic eateries, and Nan is the inspired chef with son Eddie, 28, learning the ropes, while daughter Dee Dee, 22, helms the busy bar. Open since 1998, Tamarind is ranked among Zagat’s Top 20 for good reason: great food, stylish ambiance and gracious service. Just don’t go without a reservation. MENU: ***** Be as adventurous or timid as you like and let the servers guide you to their favorites. Thankfully, they haven’t “Americanized” their offerings. Besides three kinds of curry, you’ll find chilies and lemongrass dishes, fowl and seafood, and a selection of noodles. And this is a paradise for vegetarians. FOOD QUALITY: ***** Excellent. Thai food is deeply layered, appealing to salty, sour, bitter and sweet tastes — all in the same mouthful. The meat is tender, the seafood fresh, the fluffy jasmine rice top-notch. Everything tastes fresh. FOOD PRESENTATION: ***** Beautiful orchids and carved vegetables often adorn the white plates that are an edible work of art, a country tradition. Servings are generous; Enjoy leftovers that will be the envy of your workmates. ATMOSPHERE: **** Parking is challenging at best, and the place is noisy when full. Otherwise, this is a sophisticated setting for terrific food: dramatic lighting and artwork, rich paint, fresh flowers and warm jazz in the background. CLEANLINESS: **** Hey, real estate is expensive in this ‘hood, so the kitchen is tiny. Working in close proximity, up to ten cooks keep this kitchen buzzing but clean, except for rush periods when veggies may land on the floor and stay until closing. SERVICE: ***** Throughout the world, both Thai men and women are renowned for their hospitality and warmth. Lyrical voices are soothing, and servers are glad to explain anything unfamiliar or turn down the heat on a dish. Unflappable. MENU RECOMMENDATIONS: Follow your instincts. The fried spring rolls have the right crispy skin and a nice vinegary sweet sauce. The duck salad should not be missed. The tender slices of meat kissed with a lemon/palm sugar/chili broth and garnished with cashews nuts and fresh fruit is absolutely divine. The Chilean sea bass with three sauces is delicate – perhaps a tad mushy – and nicely accompanied by spinach. I love the tender BBQ lemongrass chicken with a bracing green curry that wakes up your taste buds. You’ve never had Panang chicken like Tamarind’s — it s not too rich or goopy like some versions. OVERALL RATING: ***** This is gourmet Thai on a par with the best in New York or San Francisco. In a 3-mile radius, there are a half dozen Thai eateries, yet the crowds keep Tamarind packed. Demand for this exceptional food is so great, the owners are opening a second outpost uptown a bit. review by Suzanne Wright |
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