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| Spice ~ Upscale Casual ****1/2 793 Juniper (corner of 5th and Juniper in Midtown) Sunday: brunch 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.; Dinner 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. Monday through Thursday: 5:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. Friday through Saturday: 5:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m. Menu **** 1/2 Everything on the menu is so well-described and appealing, that it’s difficult to choose what to order. The restaurant offers a variety of meat, seafood and vegetables that range from traditional with a twist to altogether innovative. There’s even a raw section featuring uncooked vegetable dishes for fans of the California trend. Food Quality **** With Chef Paul Albrecht cooking and overseeing kitchen operations, you know the food is prepared with care. The seasonings and textures in each dish nicely complement each other and bring a new dimension to the main meat, fish or vegetable. The tender sea scallops, for instance, are marinated with mint, basil and pesto, and are served with a polenta cake and fig balsamic reduction. The food tastes as if it just has been plucked from the sea or brought in from the garden. Food Presentation **** The food comes out in strategic stacks with colorful sauces livening up the plate. What really differentiate the presentation are playful and unexpected additions, such as Brussels sprouts and gummy bears. Atmosphere **** Like Midtown itself, the restaurant’s atmosphere is a warm blend of old charm and the latest trends. A renovated Victorian-style home, the building is very open, with hardwood floors and a curved granite-topped bar back-dropped by a tall blue-lit wall. The walls are painted with earthy colors, and are accented with bits of exposed brick and modern artwork. The dim lighting and small, unique light fixtures add to the seductive ambience. Cleanliness **** With staff members continually buzzing around to wipe off tables and clean up spills, the restaurant tables, floors and restrooms sparkle. Service ***** One thing that really sets Spice apart from other restaurants in the area is the service. I’ve never seen a serving staff that takes such good care of its customers, while also being so congenial. Don’t expect the aloof servers frequently found at trendy establishments. Menu Recommendations A popular starter is Albrecht’s signature batter fried lobster tail. It is served with a unique jicama-Asian-pear slaw that is light, crisp, juicy and slightly sweet. Also, the slow-roasted Vidalia onion soup with white truffle oil and lemon-thyme crème fraiche is the restaurant’s most requested recipe. For something a little different, try the spicy cinnamon seared duck breast for a main dish. The meat is incredibly tender and the subtlety of the spices allows the flavor of the meat to come through. The pomegranate reduction adds color and a mild sweet-tart element to the dish. While I didn’t try it, word has it that the pan-fried dover sole, served with Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus and lemon-caper brown butter, is an excellent (and very popular) pick. The chocolate caramel tart, with a good ratio of the two flavors, is a satisfying end to the meal. Overall **** 1/2 Driving through Midtown, the area seems to offer numerous dining options. And while there are plenty of places to stop for a drink, far fewer of them offer food that is comparable to the fun, charming or trendy atmosphere. What I really like about Spice is the obvious amount of attention given to all aspects of the dining experience. I can’t emphasize enough how appetizing everything on the menu seems, and I wasn’t disappointed by anything I tried. And while the décor and attitude trend toward modern and hip, the restaurant manages to be laid back and inviting at the same time. Visit www.spicerestaurant.com for more information. You can find out about events, such as “Sipping from the Vine,” which happens every Thursday and offers patrons a bottomless glass of a selected wine for $10 from 6:00 to 8:00. review by Jennifer Grzeskowiak |
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| from top: Roasted red and gold beets; Spicy cinnamon seared duck; Panko crusted Sea bass. |
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