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| SEEGERS ~ formal dining ***** 111 West Paces Ferry Road At3anta, GA 30305 (404) 846-9779 Seegers restaurant is one of Atlantas culinary treasures. Chef/owner Guenter Seeger inspires strong reactions from diners and critics alike. While many swoon over the precise, inspired prixe fixe menus, others grumble about cost and portions. Open since 1997, Seegers is Atlantas only Mobil five-star, AAA five-diamond, Relais & Chateaux restaurant. This surprisingly young German put the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton/Buckhead on the map and has received international acclaim for his eponymous restaurant. MENU: ***** There are five- and eight-course tasting menus and both are stunning in their depth and breadth of influences and ingredients. Selections change daily; Expect to see creative and ingenious pairings of food and wine not often glimpsed outside the worlds most acclaimed eateries. FOOD QUALITY: ***** Top-notch. Seegers was a forerunner in establishing a network of food purveyors from across the nation and around the globe to supply products for his exacting requirements. Sapelo Island clams are bigger than a mans thumb and briny-fresh; Locally grown beets are deliriously earthy medallions. FOOD PRESENTATION: ***** Its a treat to be presented with a host of changing glassware, flatware and dishes during the course of your meal. Even more fun is to anticipate the artistic flourishes that are evident in even the smallest amuse-bouche. The food is presented much like modern art: spare, with the eye drawn to form and color on glamorously shaped (often white) china. ATMOSPHERE: ***** Housed in a modest Buckhead bungalow, the room is sublimely comfortable with understated contemporary design. Theres something vaguely 1960s about the two-story space, which features mostly monochromatic furnishings, soft sheers, wood paneling and unadorned walls with occasional shots of yellow, gray and burgundy. The attention to detail is magnificent, from the perfectly pitched, eclectic music to the specially made linens and flowers. The citys most gorgeous restrooms are here. CLEANLINESS: ***** The landscaping is lush, from the parking lot to the front door. The entire restaurant is spotless no tablecloth has a stain; No upholstery is worn. The oversized kitchen is a model of near-military efficiency and is impeccable, even though 14 chefs are often jostling for counter or cook-top space. SERVICE: ***** German precision rules the tightly choreographed pacing. The supremely professional and exceptionally knowledgeable staff is formal and serious about their jobs, as befits an endeavor of this magnitude. Such rarified surroundings arent everyones cup of tea, but, if engaged, the sommelier, hostess and servers are absolutely charming. As is the chef himself. MENU RECOMMENDATIONS: The stunning English pea soup served with mint and jumbo lump crabmeat is like spring in your mouth. Gorgeous, fresh silvery sardines are paired with a bracing pink pepper and onion broth. Quail is served with smoky Serrano ham and a parsnip crepe. A poached scallop slicked with horseradish snow is perhaps the tiniest bit bland, but the glazed beet sauce provides punch. Velvety bittersweet chocolate tart, coffee crème brulee and vanilla sorbet are stellar. Herbaceous tarragon truffles are the meals memorable finale. OVERALL RATING: ***** If you adore haute cuisine, Seegers is arguably the citys leading temple of worship. Modern classical food and superb service have been richly lauded in this intimate restaurant. Meals rise to culinary heights here. review by Suzanne Wright |
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| from top: Scallop poached in beet juice, horseraddish snow; Salmon plate; Quail and foie gras cooked in a jar, onion marmelade and redwine-apple puree; Chef/owner Gunter Seeger; Baked Alaska; | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||