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| PORTOFINO ~ upscale casual ***1/2 3199 Paces Ferry Place Atlanta, GA 30305 (404) 231-1136 www.portofinobistro.com Lunch: Mon - Sun 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. Dinner: Sun - Thurs 5:30 – 10 p.m. Fri - Sat 5:30 – 11 p.m. Portofino is a lovely Italian bistro and wine bar hidden away on Paces Ferry Place. Owners George Tice and Mike Anderson opened the establishment in December 2000. MENU ***1/2 Executive chef Paul Sidener offers Italian cuisine with an American slant. The menu reads easily, with the standard options of Caesar, field greens and arugula salads. Other appetizers include fried calamari, crab cakes and several varieties of pizzas. Entrees range from grilled French-cut pork chops marinated in molasses and soy to shrimp and scallops with sautéed spinach and tomato risotto. The list of pastas includes veal shank ravioli with spinach and oyster mushroom cream sauce, rigatoni tossed with chicken and others. The dessert menu presents a wide selection of grappa, port and cordials to pair with tiramisu or peach tart. The wine list is lengthy, lining up intriguing, lesser-known varieties next to familiar faces. Portofino serves most wines by the glass or taste but also serves them by the bottle. FOOD QUALITY **** Calamari is crunchy; Spinach is crisp. FOOD PRESENTATION *** The meal arrives on simple white china. Waiters are casually dressed. The surrounding décor is more visually stunning than the food. ATMOSPHERE **** The rooms are painted in inviting shades of red, gold and green with hardwood floors and columns, vaulted ceilings and roaring fireplaces blending for a warm ambiance. The colorful paintings of Atlanta artist Steve Penley adorn the walls. Stashes of wine fill the odd corner. A stone and brick patio offers outdoor seating in warmer months. The small wine bar lends a wooden stool for a quick glass or several hours of tasting with a friend. CLEANLINESS *** The dining area, with its spiffy white tablecloths, is quite presentable, but the restroom is definitely sub-par in comparison to the rest of the restaurant. The door maintains heavy scuffmarks; Light bulbs are out over the mirror. A friend sums up the ladies’ room as being “slightly above the restroom in a bar.” SERVICE ***1/2 Service is fine, although I received more attention while on a date in the dining room than I did sitting at the bar. Once we asked the bartender to pour us his favorites, however, he warmed up. MENU RECOMMENDATIONS The dates and toasted pecans over field greens with blue cheese dressing is excellent. It’s a nice complement to the Atlantic salmon with butter clam and oyster mushroom risotto. The fusilli with homemade sausage, wild mushrooms and tomato sauce is another tasty choice; I suggest the half order. A bottle of ZD cabernet goes down smoothly. Easier on the wallet, however, are several tastes of the Villa Cafaggio chianti, Liberty School cabernet or Cline zinfandel. OVERALL RATING ***1/2 Gold stars for the ambiance and wine list; The food is a little more average. Even so, Portofino is a sweet spot and worth a visit. review by Meredith Fletcher |
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