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| PARK 75 ~ upscale/fine dining ****1/2 Four Seasons Hotel 75 14th Street Atlanta GA 30309 (404) 881-9898 www.fourseasons.com Park 75, a generically named but individually acclaimed restaurant located up the regal stairway of midtown's Four Seasons Hotel, is a little-known secret to most locals. One of only five Mobil 4-star-rated dining establishments in Atlanta, it boasts a sophisticated elegance. Although such quality might cost a bit, it's a worthwhile splurge where diners are poignantly presented with fine fare served by a friendly, attentive wait staff. It's like tasting the fortitude of French "fromage" without having to deal with Parisian pretension. MENU: **** A dinner "tasting" provides a perfectly combined array of exotic, elegant eats mixed with just enough classic comfort cuisine. The various menus include breakfast, lunch, brunch, pre-theatre noshes and complete dinners where you can select from an a-la-carte menu or chose the chef's selection of courses. Though the prices for such formal dinners may intimidate many (tasting menus are $65 per person/$85 with wine samplings), the business lunch is affordable and offers many culinary delights. The menu seems a bit too eclectic, where foie gras is mixed into an entree paired with short rib ravioli or barbeque pulled pork with coleslaw. It is, at first, a threat of too much fusion but all actually works well. The wine list offers an eclectic mix of varietals from various regions. Many are offered by the glass, and the staff is quite ready to recommend worthy choices without pushing only the trendy or expensive vintages. FOOD QUALITY: ***** Fresh, seasonal ingredients are ordered from indigenous locations where each ingredient is best grown in glory. Scallops are served in their shells. Artisan cheeses come from small family dairies. Meadow lamb is ordered from Colorado, and the "Turf" of the classic Surf and Turf gives the classic combo of lobster with a Montanan bison filet, providing a new twist. FOOD PRESENTATION: ***** The dishes are served with flair but without pretension. ATMOSPHERE: **** The atmosphere is refined and elegant. It might be a bit sterile without the impeccably efficient, warm and personable staff. It’s apparent that the focus is on quality and clientele rather than on themed surroundings. CLEANLINESS: ***** The restaurant is impeccably clean. SERVICE: **** The staff is superb, providing the proper servitude without being solicitous. MENU RECOMMENDATIONS: For appetizers, you can't go wrong ordering either the hot and cold Hudson Valley foie gras or the scallop Rockefeller whenever available. The foie gras is dressed with pomegranates, and the scallops in their shells are drizzled with a delicate truffle hollandaise. The side dishes perhaps stand out most of all – The lamb is served with a mushroom potato lasagna sliced in the thinnest, most delicate layers that, though molded mostly for aesthetic wonder, burst on the tongue. This small terrine of detail unravels into melting blankets of wild, woody fungi and root veggies. OVERALL RATING: ****1/2 Though Park 75 lacks a central theme or sense of unity at first and offers a menu that seems to combine too many known staples with exotic eats, it all works somehow without bowing to the latest trends. Park 75 offers not only culinary satisfaction and human interaction for travelers and locals alike, it also serves up earnest integrity. review by Maureen McCarthy |
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| from top: Park 75 salad; surf & turf; Chef Kevin Hickey; Manjari pyramid. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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