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| OSCAR’S **** 3725 MAIN STREET COLLEG PARK, GA 30337 404-766-9688 As the original up-market Southside dining destination, Oscar’s has grown in its culinary accomplishments as the neighborhood has continued to evolve. From business meeting to date, couples night to boys’ night out, this eatery, with its innovative but not intimidating menu and terrific service continues to attract newcomers as well as hold the attention of regulars. The bar is a gem. MENU: **** This well-edited menu created by Chef Todd Immel may strike some as limiting, but I prefer to view it as confident. His seasonally changing, assured creative American cuisine continues to reward in surprising ways. FOOD QUALITY: **** Excellent. Georgia figs are a luscious treat in summer, seafood is stellar and meats are tender and flavorful. FOOD PRESENTATION: ***** Artful. Generous portions are served on modern white china with a minimum of distracting garnishes. The focus is on the food. ATMOSPHERE: ***** Urbane not trendy digs draw diners from all over the city. Nostalgic (check out the huge, original Coca-Cola mural on exposed brick) meets sleek (blond wood, white linens, sexy glass light fixtures). Floor to ceiling windows throw light into the space and offer a glimpse of the old train depot. There’s live jazz on the weekends. CLEANLINESS: ***** Impeccably tidy, from the well-designed kitchen to the bar to the main dining room to the bathrooms. SERVICE: **** Polished, unobtrusive and sweet natured describes the servers who seem to have their timing down cold working in tandem. Leave your chair? Your napkin will be folded upon your return. Owner Oscar Morales is often on site as host. MENU RECOMMENDATIONS: Appetizers and salads are exceptionally strong, and you might do well to focus here. The Sardinian flatbread is a signature, sometimes topped with sundried tomatoes and olives, sometimes with air-cured meats. Don’t miss the cheery English peas with pecorino in a mint and lemon vinaigrette or the luscious last-of-season Georgia figs paired with salty buffalo mozzarella and basil. Torpedo-shaped cured hamachi slivers with lemon-coriander vinaigrette are bright and velvety on the tongue. Another signature is the sweet, on-bone skate wing sometimes served with artichokes and crème fraiche as an entree. The grilled flat iron steak is buttery, the sharp tang of gorgonzola inspired. Among recent desserts, the cheeky winner was two plump, exceedingly sugary donuts served with a peppery strawberry jam. OVERALL RATING: **** Flying out of Hartsfield? Treat yourself to a meal here. Tired of the Midtown/Buckhead scene? Escape to Oscar’s. You won’t necessarily spend any less, but the upscale ambiance soothes and the food often wows. Oscar’s holds its own among the city’s finest destinations. review by Suzanne Wright |
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| above: Endive salad; Venison; Skate wing. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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