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| Nam (upscale casual) ***** (a perfect score) 931 Monroe Drive Atlanta, GA 30306 (404) 541-9997 Alex Kinjo’s knockout new upscale Vietnamese eatery in the Midtown Promenade is a smashing success with its trendy locale, ravishing interior, helpful staff and memorably delectable—but not dumbed-down—food. There’s a precedent for my optimism: Alex and his brother Chris are the force behind the wildly successful MFSushi, just up the road on Ponce de Leon. MENU: ***** The menu (tucked into a dark wooden holder) is intelligently organized into appetizers, salads, soups, meats, noodles, seafood and vegetables. There’s tremendous variety, but it’s all well edited for a discriminating palate. FOOD QUALITY: ***** Top-notch. Fresh seafood, tender meats, impeccable vegetables. FOOD PRESENTATION: ***** Each plate was beautifully presented and our anticipation was exceeded as we nibbled. ATMOSPHERE: ***** The space, which is compact and ravishing looks like it could easily be in Manhattan or San Francisco. Kinjo lavished nearly five months on his vision and the results are splendid without being contrived. Filmy red and white curtains, chocolate brown upholstery, striking fresh-cut flowers, dramatic lighting (including lotus-shaped paper chandeliers), elegant bamboo shaped silverware, charcoal drawings of women on one wall, a candle-lit trail to oxblood-tiled bathrooms deliver one sensual, stylish vibe to wile away a couple of hours. CLEANLINESS: ***** Mother Anh is the chef; cousin Huan and brother-in-law Giang also have key roles in the tiny, spotless kitchen. There’s not a spec of dirt in sight. SERVICE: ***** Willowy waitresses in ao dai, traditional, form-fitting rosebud pink chemises, glide through the room and servers are gracious and helpful in recommending combinations to try, whether you are a newcomer or old hand at Southeast Asian cuisine. You are coddled. MENU RECOMMENDATIONS: Let Kinjo steer you to off-menu choices, as well as bo la lot, a tasty grilled, ground sausage wrapped in banana leaf; nuoc mam, glistening beef carpaccio served with thin lime slices and chef’s secret fish sauce (it’s not the pungent stuff you’ve had in Chamblee) and goi ga, a cold salad of boiled chicken, onion, cabbage and aromatic basil. A striped bass wrapped in squash, the whole bundled in banana leaves, was a beautiful dish that was a joy to eat. The piece de resistance? The “shaking” kobe beef, rich cubes of the finest meat stir-fried with chopped garlic and onions, pricey but truly magnificent. We paired a glass of Paraiso pinot noir with the beef and it was divine. OVERALL RATING: ***** Less aggressively seasoned than Thai food and more complex than Chinese food, gourmet Vietnamese cooking is distinctive and subtle, the complexity unfolding with each layered—and healthful—bite. I visited just two weeks after its quiet opening and a pleasant mix of Asians, non-Asians, gays, straights and folks ranging from college age to senior citizens, were tucking into the food with appreciation. If Buford Highway intimidates you, get yourself to Nam right away. review by Suzanne Wright |
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