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Mexico City Gourmet ~ casual ***
2134 North Decatur Road
Decatur, GA 30033
(404) 634-1128

While Mexico City Gourmet (Emory location) fails somewhat as it is currently "temporarily" devoid of cocktails in lieu of some liquor license snafus, the cuisine is still affordable and offers a welcome retreat into a swift over-the-border vacation with just enough sin. This restaurant renders cuisine more representative of real Mexico than many contemporaries reminiscent of a cheap trip to Tijuana. Montezuma's Revenge is not a souvenir you're likely to bring home after a quick cruise into lunching Latino here.

MENU: ****
The menu is not fancy , but it does offer an explanation of the cuisine and culture of Mexico City. It's refreshing to see the requisite combo dinners alpha-labeled, as so many Mexican joints share the same menu that , frightfully, #21 is usually the same burrito, chile relleno and rice served just the same in countless restaurants coast to coast. In addition to the norm, there are many unique appetizers and full entrees that offer familiar ingredients kicked up a notch. Those with a flair for authentic food of the beach, as well as vegetarians or health conscious sorts will find a friendly mix of fresh seafood, potato stuffed burritos and tacos stuffed with grilled goodies. Unlike many like eateries, Mexico City Gourmet often has daily specials, which may include either fresh fish or cuts of steak marinated or manipulated with complex sauces consisting of far more than just sour cream or runny red sauce.

FOOD QUALITY: ****
The specialties and appetizers are usually prepared with fresh herbs and vegetables. There is, however, some inconsistency, depending on the staff and the feel of the day. The combination dinners are not a good bet, as they are typical of any other generic Mexican restaurant. Though they are perfectly fine, it’s best to visit a cheaper chain for the requisite stuff.

FOOD PRESENTATION: ***
Once again, the specials and fresh appetizers are served with color and freshness without any boisterous bells and whistles. The more typical tacos are unadorned.

ATMOSPHERE: ***
The Emory location, while being located in a small strip store cluster, maintains a unique feel that's warm enough but also roomy and appropriate for private conversing.

CLEANLINESS: ***
All appears quite sanitary but things are certainly not spic and span. The women's restroom could use more flush (albeit things are not broken enough to ruin one's appetite).

SERVICE: ***
A couple of older, dug-in waitrons add to the authenticity but also to an often apathetic attitude. Don't take it personally, and you'll find you'll get what you ask for and perhaps a little pleasantry if the time is right.

MENU RECOMMENDATIONS:
Try the spinach dip rather than the cheese goo. A refreshing shrimp and scallop ceviche is a nice appetizer for two or even a small meal for one. Though it’s a bit pricey for the quantity at $8.95 and better when the season is right, the seafood is not over or under marinated. The shellfish is "cooked" in a lemon, onion, olive oil and jalapeno marinade served in an avocado filled with lettuce.

Vegetarians will enjoy the Georgia burrito, as it's hearty but not heavy. Stuffed with onions, potatoes and peppers, it's a simple but satisfying treat. My favorite is the chile relleno, which is not just filled with hamburger, as it is elsewhere. Instead, the smoky chili is stuffed with almonds, potatoes, raisins and spices and lightly fried in an egg batter. The fillet of red snapper Veracruz is sautéed with onion, carrots, celery, olives and capers and a touch of Anego cheese. It's served with black bean soup, salad and guacamole. Camarones al mogo de ajo are also a good bet, though a bit pricey at $14.95. The shrimp are fresh and wonderfully slathered in fresh garlic, but the quantity and size of the crustaceans might leave you going home a bit hungry. Not the Mexican restaurant to rely upon combo plates, as they're more costly and just as bland as other more generic places.

OVERALL RATING: ***
A hit or miss place to dine, Mexico City Gourmet is a bit inconsitent, but the menu offers some innovation without trying to make Mexican cuisine into expensive, well-accessorized nachos. It’s worth a try, especially when the liquor license allows them to serve up limey margaritas once more.

review by Maureen McCarthy