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| Lush 913 Bernina Avenue Atlanta, GA 30307 404-223-9292 www.lushcafe.com Owners Isaac Adelenge and Charlotte Macbagito have introduced the city to “innovative international vegan cuisine” and are gambling a savvy crowd of vegetarians and non-vegetarians will come—and come back again. Although early reviews were a bit uneven, Atlanta sorely needs a fine dining option in this niche and enthusiastic new chef Nicholas Domingo (a carnivore) is retooling the menu to appeal to non-vegetarians. Stay tuned…he’s got a few creative culinary tricks up his sleeve. MENU: *** The menu is short (a half dozen starters, several salads and six to eight entrees) and boasts numerous Asian and Mexican influences; some may find it too limiting. For a restaurant that eschews dairy (eggs, butter and shortening) along with meat, poultry and seafood, they are doing a fair job of balancing variety with kitchen limitations. FOOD QUALITY: *** Some ingredients (especially those that result in “mock” items, like “tuna” or “chicken”) still need tweaking either in texture or flavor or both. Best are the fresh vegetables and herbs combined in comforting or challenging ways. Rule of thumb: the simpler the dish, the better it succeeds; pass on specials with descriptions that run to a paragraph. FOOD PRESENTATION: *** ** Dramatic, artful creations on big white china. Ample to large servings. ATMOSPHERE: **** This upscale Inman Park place lives up to its name. From the welcoming and yes, lush, entranceway with its seductive patio plantings to the elegantly cool interiors (the owners served as designers), this renovation of an old industrial building is a resounding success. It’s a welcome addition to the intown scene that’s attracting a surfeit of gay men (who all look great, naturally). Maybe they are the best advertisement for the food. CLEANLINESS: **** The public spaces are spotless; the kitchen tidy, if disheveled, after a long night. SERVICE: **** A well-trained and knowledgeable staff that is clearly impassioned about the food they serve. You might even say, on a mission. MENU RECOMMENDATIONS: Starters are especially appealing. The complimentary homemade potato chips are remarkably greaseless and, when dipped into the accompanying green pepper dipping sauce, sure to awaken your taste buds. Slake the salt with a not-too-sweet sangria, glass of wine or special drink like a “hurricane” offered during a recent storm. An aromatic salad of jicama slivers dusted with cumin is a daring triumph of both texture and flavor; the creamy white bean hummus pierced with lengths of fresh thyme and flatbread is luscious. The thumb-sized bricks of fried bean curd slicked with sweet and sour Asian glaze are a winner; the chilaquiles, a lasagna-like layered dish of corn tortilla and vegetables slices is messy, spicy eating. Desserts are from the accomplished Southern Sweets Bakery—a smart move for an eatery without a pastry chef—and provide a great ending to the meal. The peanut butter mousse cake (embellished with basil blossoms) is an absolutely decadent pairing of salty whipped peanut mousse, sweet chocolate cake and icing; I swear I couldn’t tell it was made with tofu! OVERALL RATING: *** I admit I entered as an atheist about a vegan(!) restaurant, but came away, if not a believer, an intrigued agnostic. An open mind and a playful palate are what’s required to discover a few gastronomic gems you’re not likely to find elsewhere. I want to see what the next few seasons under Domingo’s hand yield before I pledge my faith. Lush is a no-brainer for the converted. By Suzanne Wright |
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