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| THE FOOD STUDIO ~ upscale casual **** 887 West Marietta Street Studio K-102 Atlanta, GA 30318 (404) 873-7358 This is a studio unlike any other in the city: out-of-the-way dining in a turn-of-the-century plow factory. This is a formerly gritty urban setting gone glam with food as ravishing as the locale is architecturally interesting. Think of The Food Studio as the equivalent of J. Lo: neighborhood femme fatale gone urban chic with enough of a high-gloss veneer to keep you deliriously hooked. MENU: **** Dubbed “bold American food,” the Food Studio has been wowing with its innovative cooking since 1996. The menu teases with French, Asian and Southern influences, yet it reflects the singular vision of executive chef Chip Ulbrich. Toques off to the chef: It’s a nifty trick to experiment — and succeed — with favorites like New York strip and striped bass, seducing with continuously-honed culinary creativity. This food needs only whisper to gain attention. FOOD QUALITY: ***** From the micro-greens to the artisanal cheeses, never-frozen seafood and organic meat, the freshest ingredients are used to ensure consistency and flavor. Quality in, quality out. FOOD PRESENTATION: **** Big white plates show off the elegant preparations. ATMOSPHERE: ****1/2 Drop-dead sexy – That’s the vibe you get in this loft building. There’s a distinctive masculine look (exposed brick, metal accents) softened by feminine touches (candlelight, plush upholstery). The bar is perfect for a romantic tête-à-tête, and there’s a fireplace for cozy dining. CLEANLINESS: ***** Check out the open kitchen. It’s as tidy as the dining room is alluring. The carpet underfoot is stain-free, the linens are unblemished, and the bathrooms are well maintained. SERVICE: ***** Polished, professional service is delivered by a hip — but not hipper-than-thou — wait staff. Training and education are priorities, and it shows. Recommendations are confidently offered, including the cooking techniques and origins of each dish. In addition to their familiarity with the food, servers also have a near-encyclopedic knowledge of wines and are glad to offer tastes of those that intrigue you. There’s no pretension, and service is unobtrusive, yet you feel coddled — a perfect balance whether you’re a high roller on expense account or practicing the fine art of l’amour. MENU RECOMMENDATIONS: Surf and turf is a clever rendition on a standard: mussels and escargots scented with rosemary and basil saffron. But ask about size. The mussels are sweet but small, as are the snails, giving the oversized plate a stingy look. The rich, silky Hudson Valley foie gras terrine is paired with a piquant red onion cherry jam. The fist-sized seared sea scallops with mushroom and sorrel sauce, elicits near XXX-rated moans of pleasure. A terrific, greaseless duck breast is treated to an Asian toss of pears and sweet potatoes, and the tasty tuna steak frites is a nod to the classic French preparation updated with an addictive house-made ketchup and truffle mayonnaise. And while I like the cheese tasting, I’d like to see a more generous offering. The lemon basil bombe is a herbaceous, bracing dessert favorite, but I prefer the chocolate café, ménage a trios of dark chocolate mousse with cinnamon brulee, candied orange and espresso sauce. Ecstasy. OVERALL RATING: **** The Food Studio is a favorite of locals and visitors alike for good reason. Its intimate décor, excellent pacing and creative, glamorous food has gotten raves from CNN, The Wine Spectator and Gourmet magazines. If you’re looking for a sophisticated night on the town, this is one studio worth seeking out. review by Suzanne Wright |
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