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| DISH ~ upscale casual **** 870 North Highland Avenue NE Atlanta, GA 30306 (404) 897-DINE It’s been five and a half years since dish took up residence in this former gas station. A loyal following comes to this sexy oasis of calm in Virginia Highlands for reliably good food that veers into great on occasion. Dish delivers excellent value for the money. MENU: **** Grouped as tastes, appetizers, main dishes and pastries, there is a lot to graze through here. Dishes include something for every taste, from Asian-influenced to homespun Southern to California/Mediterranean to Southwestern efforts. Sometimes you wish for an ingredient or three less — like the Kobe steak overwhelmed with a cloying balsamic sauce heaped upon a bed of faro tossed with peppered veal jus. FOOD QUALITY: **** Wholesome, better-than-average ingredients are sometimes hard to discern in combination. FOOD PRESENTATION: *** 1/2 Portions are enormous; thus, fully loaded plates make it difficult to appreciate the elements on their own. ATMOSPHERE: **** The patio is a great spot in spring with heat lamps keeping a chill off. The inside, with its dramatic black and white photography (think theatrical), hip lighting, metal bar and cozy two-tops, is an immensely pleasant place to while away a couple of hours. CLEANLINESS: **** This small space — dining room, kitchen, bathrooms – is tidy both inside and out. SERVICE: **** Our server is casual and breezy, and happy to offer recommendations if solicited. Plates are cleared with ease, bread replenished, glasses refilled. MENU RECOMMENDATIONS: Love the rosemary pinenut popcorn. Careful, it’s addictive! Crispy (not oily) chili infused duck tacos with a sharp tomatillo relish are a triumph. Salads are smashing. Arugula, fennel and red onion salads with smoked salmon and lemon essence is a bright/rich/peppery affair. The fried green tomato and smoky hummus with grilled shrimp is also a winner. The chocolate dish is the signature dessert – calling it pot a crème doesn’t do justice to the dense, bittersweet confection studded with liquor-plumped cherries. There’s also a wine list ripe with affordable glasses and half bottles of interesting finds, such as a McDowell viognier and Eos zinfandel. OVERALL RATING: **** Sticking with simpler executions and daily specials proves ultimately rewarding in this reasonably priced neighborhood eatery that charms with its low-key ease. review by Suzanne Wright |
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