Atlanta's Finest Dining



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Canoe ~ upscale casual ****1/2
4199 Paces Ferry Road
Atlanta, GA 30339
(770) 432-2663
www.canoe-atl.com
Mon - Thurs 5:30 – 10 p.m.
Fri, Sat 5:30 – 11 p.m.
Sun 10:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m; 5:30 - 9:30 p.m.

Set on the banks of the Chattahoochee in Vinings, Canoe offers upscale dining with a romantic, rustic flair. Open since 1995 by owners George McKerrow Jr. and Ron San Martin, the building and grounds are refurbished from a circa 1940s dance hall/dinner spot known as Robinson’s Tropical Gardens. Worthy of investigation for its beautiful surroundings alone, Canoe is also a recipient of the Mobil 4-Star award. And yes, it really is that good.

MENU: ****1/2

Executive chef Gary L. Mennie offers a delicious spread, heavy on game and high on flavor. Appetizers include quail with molasses barbeque glaze and fennel-radish slaw or a grilled ostrich medallion with spiced quince puree, walnuts and fresh cranberry conserve. Try the roasted organic pumpkin soup, or save room for the pistachio seared goat cheese with young spinach salad, frisee and rosemary shallot vinaigrette. Entrees range from grilled Atlantic salmon to slow-roasted Carolina rabbit to charred duck breast, each served up creatively, but comfortably. The wine list easily presents a quandary. Be prepared to need a few extra moments to decide.

FOOD QUALITY: *****

For seasonal highlights and the freshest fare around, try the chef’s market menu, a four-course selection offered Monday through Thursday ($55 per person).

FOOD PRESENTATION: ****

Mennie aims for fun, simple presentation. His style is clean and engaging without being overcrowded. There’s room on the plate for eating.

ATMOSPHERE: ****1/2

The ambiance is warm and inviting all over, although the dining room can get a bit loud when full. Wood paneling, exposed bricks and crisp, white tablecloths create a laid-back yet chic approach. Cozy up at the bar for a glass of cabernet before dinner and stroll the winding pathways by the river after. Note the canoe marking the entranceway, as well as the miniature version in the restroom. They just make you smile.

CLEANLINESS: *****

All appears to be in pristine order – Every napkin, flower bud and dinner mint is in its place.

SERVICE: ****

Servers are attentive and knowledgeable, particularly about the wine list, which runs on for pages.

MENU RECOMMENDATIONS:

The smoked salmon appetizer, served over a fingerling potato with cucumber salad and fresh horseradish is a must. In fact, order two and take one to go. The roasted venison loin with sage spaetzle, smoked bacon, dried fruit chutney and juniper berries is tender and tasty. The pistachio-seared goat cheese with spinach salad and grilled Atlantic salmon with fingerling potatoes, oven dried tomatoes, olives and citrus caper vinaigrette are excellent choices as well. And dessert doesn’t get any better than the chocolate soufflé cake.

OVERALL RATING: ****1/2

From the view to the vino to the victuals, Canoe is one pleasant trip. Dine outside in warmer months or arrive early for a wine tasting amid the blooms. Be sure to grab a Bob’s peppermint from the bowl on the way out.

review by Meredith Fletcher

from top: Oak roasted lamb loin, forest mushrooms, & potato gnocchi; Porcini dusted scallops and sweet pea risotto; Chef Gary Mennie; Bittersweet Vahlrona chocolate cake, espresso cream icing & candied kumquat; Blackberry muffin;