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| Bacchanalia ~ upscale casual ***** 1198 Howell Mill Road Atlanta, Georgia (404) 365-0410 Lunch: Wed – Sat 11:30 a.m. – 1:30 p.m. Dinner: Mon – Sat from 6:30 p.m. Bacchus is the ancient Roman God of wine. Bacchanalia is the annual festival observed by his followers, which celebrates food, wine, dancing and all the pleasurable things in life. Sound like a history lesson? It’s not. There is still one place in Atlanta where this feast is celebrated. Bacchanalia, named for the festival, is located at the corner of Howell Mill and Huff Roads. Food and wines from various places are enjoyed daily, and the act of dining is elevated to a “religious experience.” This place approaches food and drink like a man lost in the dessert approaches a glass of water. You fill up and enjoy every last bit of it. You swim in your senses and breathe a sigh of contentment when you are finished. Beware the spell of Bacchus! MENU: ***** The menu is price fixed for dinner at a lofty, yet reasonable, $58 a head. It includes four courses and will delight you all the way. You’ll find yourself wanting to ask for a whole bowl of the mango sorbet in mandarin soup, which they have only brought to cleanse your palate. Among the first courses alone, one can find Maine diver sea scallops with sherry bacon vinaigrette, Hawaiian prawns with garlic and herbs, and fresh California snails with shitakes. The menu varies nightly and includes diverse main dishes comprised of fish, poultry and beef. Each comes with a recommended wine pairing. The third course is your choice of a cheese plate or salad containing exotic greens, nuts, and fruits such as the Asian pair, pine nuts and currants with roaring ‘40s blue or Ellijay apples & celery root with llangloffan. Desserts come recommended with wine pairings as well, and are a mix of hot and cold, chocolate and fruity, light and moist. FOOD QUALITY: ***** The food, apart from being delicious, contains just the right level of richness while not overwhelming your taste buds. The menu is seasonal to ensure that only fresh and ripe ingredients reach your table. FOOD PRESENTATION: **** The food presentation is simple. Portions are just right, and food is arranged attractively on the plate. ATMOSPHERE: **** Bacchanalia’s surroundings do not overwhelm. The mysterious, dimly lit entrance can be seen at the back of Star Provisions, the restaurant’s catering division. Inside the restaurant, pale-yellow tiles reminiscent of a highschool gym make up the walls. Plush seating lines these walls in tones of beige, berry and brown. CLEANLINESS: ***** From the dining room to the bathroom to the kitchen, there are no complaints about cleanliness here. SERVICE: ***** Service is excellent. Servers are attentive, very knowledgeable regarding the menu selections and genuinely enthusiastic about the food. MENU RECOMMENDATIONS: California snails with shitakes and the sautéed turbot with wild mushrooms are two worthy choices. The wood-grilled prime tenderloin of beef with potato au gratin is a succulent tender mini tower of beef. The cheese plate, although supplementary, is recommended and comes with several choices made with cow’s milk, goat’s milk, sheep’s milk or blue cheese. The warm Roche baron tart with Sauternes ice cream is outstanding. A rich, cake-like treat with a hint of blue cheese, it is paired with a strong Joseph La Magia, Botrytis Riesling as an ample finale. OVERALL RATING: ***** Bacchanalia is well worth the price. Visit when you are in the mood to celebrate life and wake your senses in a way that would make Bacchus proud. review by Stacey Campbell |
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| from top: Prime beef tartare; Roasted Maine halibut with Oregon morels and sweet peas; Owners/chefs Anne Quatrano & Cliff Harrison; Key lime pie with meringue. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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