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WEATHER.COM (Atlanta)
Atmosphere
~ French Bistro

~ upscale casual ****
1620 Piedmont Ave. 30324
(678) 702-1620
Dinner: Tues., Wed., Thurs., Sun: 6.00pm-10.00pm
Dinner: Fri. & Sat.: 6.00pm-10.30pm
Brunch: Sat. & Sun.:11.30am-2.30pm



Menu ****

The menu, which is changed seasonally, offers the perfect variety of seafood, meat and vegetarian options without being overwhelming. Entrées range from mussels and sea bass to hanger steak and duck legs confit, and tend to not be too heavy. Diners who want to sit on the patio and enjoy a drink can create a light meal from the soups, appetizers or salads. The wine list is comprehensive and features a fair number of reasonably priced French wines.


Food Quality ****

All of the ingredients in each dish are obviously well thought out and complement each other, creating almost a playful feel. One salad, for instance, combines pungent Roquefort cheese, spicy Anjou pears and bits of crunchy walnuts for texture, in addition to the mesclum and balsamic vinaigrette. Because the menu changes to reflect what is in season, the dishes are fresh and weather-appropriate.


Food Presentation ****

The presentation is pleasant and typical of what you will find in most of the slightly more upscale restaurants in the area. The dishes are aptly proportioned and most feature a main element surrounded by groupings of vegetables or pasta and swirls of colorful sauce.


Atmosphere **** 1/2

While the food is enjoyable, the surroundings elevate the restaurant to another level. The interior of the renovated 1950s home is charming and reflective of a French bistro, with red, yellow and green walls, and an abundance of vintage wine posters. Sporadic pieces of distressed furniture add a rustic French element to the décor. Many of the original walls remain intact, dividing up the dining area for a more intimate feel. The patio area is just as distinct. Although located on highly trafficked Piedmont Avenue, lush greenery surrounds the entrance and neighboring buildings on both sides of the street, creating a small haven within the city. And on Tuesdays and Thursdays starting at 7:30, live musicians add to the atmosphere by playing French music and well-known American songs with a French twist.


Cleanliness ****

The inside of the restaurant is well maintained and the tables and chairs outdoors are kept relatively dust-free.


Service ****

Not all of the servers here are overtly friendly, but they are attentive. Each dish comes out at a leisurely European pace, which makes for a perfectly timed and relaxing meal. There seems to be a number of regulars who dine at the restaurant and converse openly with the staff, creating a convivial feel.


Suggestions

The signature appetizer here is marinated escargots baked in garlic butter, which is rumored to be fantastic. As mentioned before, the Roquefort cheese salad with Anjou pears and walnuts is a perfect melding of very distinct flavors. The goat cheese crotin appetizer is also enjoyable, especially when the cheese is still warm. Marinated tomatoes and black olives stand up to the slight bite of the cheese.

For an entrée, the classic French dish of mussels and fries is a satisfying combination. The mussels are fresh (not at all gritty or fishy) and the broth is a light stew of white wine and juice from the seafood. The homemade fries are earthy and tender. The sautéed scallops are also a good pick, served with spinach ravioli and a not-too-heavy cream sauce of mushrooms and truffle emulsion. Mushrooms are always a great pairing with truffles and together they add a fragrant, rich and flavorful element to the light scallops.

Any of the desserts should be savored with a cup of the restaurant’s bold coffee. I particularly liked the profiteroles because they bring together cold creamy ice cream, a flaky pastry outside and warm drizzled chocolate.


Overall ****

The two best aspects of the restaurant are the distinct ambience and the play between the unique elements of some of the dishes. The overall feel tends toward warm and relaxing, rather than formal and stuffy. And there are few things better in life than a laid-back meal full of wine, fresh food, coffee and crème brulee, accompanied by a couple of hours of live music.


review by Jennifer Grzeskowiak
Above: Mussels; Sea Bass; Warm Goat Cheese Crotin; Profiterols.