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| Aria ~ upscale casual ***** 490 East Paces Ferry Rd. Atlanta, GA 30305 (404) 233-7673 It’s easy to sing the praises of this gorgeous Buckhead restaurant. Without fanfare, chef Gerry Klaskala has quietly elevated his enterprise to the dizzying culinary heights of Bacchanalia and Joel, in terms of setting, food creativity, consistency and polish. You’ll be talking about your rewarding dining experience long after the plates are cleared. MENU: ***** Modern takes on French fare with an occasional Asian or Mediterranean accent. At first glance, you might shrug at the familiar smoked trout, lobster cocktail or foie gras. But press on and prepare to swoon, for Klaskala’s touches are what food memories are made of. FOOD QUALITY: ***** Best-in-class produce (heirloom black and red radishes, black truffles, golden oak mushrooms) freshen the classic and showcase the kitchen’s ardor and expertise. Knives are often superfluous with buttery cuts of meat and poultry. FOOD PRESENTATION: ***** Edible art. Intelligently sized portions are seductively arranged on stark white plates. ATMOSPHERE: ***** Contemporary elegance sums up the atmosphere. After you pass through the ball bearing-like curtains that separate the bar from the dining area, your eyes are greeted with an expanse of windows, white paint and sexy banquettes plumped with grayish-green upholstery in quiet corners. Other than an arresting “chandelier” that looks like the love child of a sea anemone and an antherium, all eyes are on the food. Take a peek at the romantic wine table tucked downstairs. CLEANLINESS: ***** Everything is spotless: carpets, hardwoods, linens and bathrooms. SERVICE: ***** Expert, yet warm. The well-versed staff delight in steering you through courses, so surrendering to a three- or four-course meal with wine pairings is a treat. MENU RECOMMENDATIONS: Nearly everything soars. Aromatic, creamless celery root soup is a subtly rich starter. The smoked mountain trout with horseradish crème fraiche is an explosion of creamy, bracing flavors. Don’t miss the luscious risottos – perhaps a distinctive truffle-infused or a tomato-based mound plumped with diver scallops. Zinfandel-braised beef short ribs melt in your mouth. Seared ahi tuna is pleasantly earthy and gets a kick from wasabi-mashed potatoes, while the pan-roasted duck with Fuji apples is supple and satisfying. Kathryn King’s desserts up the ante: Her silky sorbets are outstanding, especially the lemongrass and meyor lemon. The warm chocolate cheesecake is pleasing, but it’s the Valrhona chocolate tart with a hazelnut caramel center that scored a perfect ten. OVERALL RATING: ***** Aria hits all the right notes: a pitch-perfect menu, a low-key luxe room that everyone looks good in, service with aplomb. An unqualified culinary success. review by Suzanne Wright |
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| above: Owner Gerry Klaskala; Pan roasted Irish salmon with asparaagus, lemon risotto and reggiano parmesean. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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