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| Agave, Eclectic Southwest by Osha Ana Curran The southwest has an allure all its own of pastel deserts and jagged mountain ranges. The air is bone dry and full of mystery. The people in this arid region are as diverse as the colorful, enchanting sunsets. White, red and brown skin blend to form a culture as bold and spicy as the food that comes from this region. Agave is spicing up Cabbagetown with a touch of this bold southwestern flair. Located directly across from the beautiful and historic Oakland Cemetery, the atmosphere here is open and airy with a rustic, southwest feel to match the menu. The staff bustles about, dropping bottles off wine and specialty margaritas off at tables at an efficient, but not rushed pace. I visited Agave on two separate occasions. Once to experience a regular evening’s dinner at Agave and the second time to attend one of their featured wine dinners. On the first visit, my dining companion and I began our evening by sampling several appetizers. The Guajillo Mussels, served in a red chile wine sauce with cilantro and basil broth, were quite pleasing. Served with tortillas, they had an extra kick that made them stand out from most mussel recipes. I enjoyed this southwestern twist that left me sipping ice water. The highlight of our evening was the appetizer special, a fresh Maryland fried jumbo soft shell crab over a spicy tomato buerre blanc. It was, by far, the largest crab I’ve ever laid eyes upon and the tastiest. Once again, the spiciness of the sauce added a new and exciting twist to the usual soft shell crab preparation. After this rich and tasty dish, the tomato, avocado and basil salad, very self explanatory, was perfect for the hot and sultry evening. The ingredients were both fresh and refreshing and provided a perfect palate cleansing lead-in to our entrees. The entrees arrived a few minutes after our appetizer plates were cleared, leaving us with a few minutes to sip our wine, Geyser Peak Gewurtzraminer, recommended by our knowledgeable waiter. Light and fruity with more than a hint of effervescence, the wine was a perfect choice. Our entrees arrived beautifully prepared. I ordered the Stuffed Mountain Trout Tomatillo, Idaho trout stuffed with crawfish, mushrooms, onions and basil over Spanish rice with freshly cut cilantro. The trout had a distinct and wild flavor that was nicely tamed by the tangy tomatillo sauce. Everything was fresh and perfectly cooked. Agave uses only fresh ingredients, there are no microwaves or freezers on the premises. Proprietor and chef, Jack Sobel, regularly imports a special red chile directly from New Mexico to add the perfect fiery flavor to his recipes. My dinner companion ordered the Sashimi Tuna encrusted with black sesame seeds and served with julienned vegetables, sliced cucumbers and a serano soy vinaigrette. Although a far cry from the traditional southwestern fare, this dish had exquisite flavor and texture. I was expecting to encounter a strong fishy flavor in this Asian influenced dish, but I was pleasantly surprised. The tuna had a firm texture and mild flavor that was set off by the mouth cooling al dente julienne vegetables. After our plates were cleared, my companion and I enjoyed the lingering heat that the spicy food left in our mouths. None of the dishes were too spicy, not enough to burn, just enough to leave us feeling awake and alive. And then dessert arrived. The plate was prepared beautifully with a generous portion of two of their homemade desserts, Torta de Sabrosa with chocolate ganache and pecan crust, and key lime pie. The torta was rich and sinful, while the key lime pie was creamy and tart. Both were excellent and provided a perfect finish to our sizzling evening. After our first experience at Agave, we were excited to go back for a second visit. This time we attended a wine dinner featuring a wonderful family of wines from Spain. With each course our host presented us with a new wine, described its characteristics and attributes, and explained why it was served with each particular dish. These dinners, hosted often at Agave, are a great way to meet new people, learn about new wines and dine on excellent southwestern cuisine. Reservations are required for this family style meal and the events almost always sell out. After over fifteen years in the restaurant business, Proprietor and Chef Jack Sobel, is pleased to have opened this eclectic eatery in the heart of historic Cabbagetown and Grant Park. Sobel grew up in the hospitality industry with his family throughout the United States, having spent a great deal of time in the Land of Enchantment, New Mexico, where his love of southwestern cooking began. Agave is located at 242 Boulevard. For reservations, call 404-588-0006. |
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| from top: Various southwestern style dishes with an eclectic twist from Agava; Communal style dining area; Owner and chef. |
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