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| Imperial Fez: A Royal Experience by Suzanne Wright I sprawl out on a jewel-colored cushion, debating whether I need to discreetly let my belt out a notch as a belly dancer undulates her rounded tummy to the rather tinny-sounding strains of Arabic music. Next time I’ll break out my rarely used caftan for dinner at the Imperial Fez. First, a confession: I’m a Moroccophile the way some people are Anglophiles. And while this restaurant is a somewhat kitschy, Americanized rendition (note the blinking red, green and pink lights) of the glorious eateries of Fez and Marrakech, I still have a wildly good time here. So does everyone else on a recent Friday night: businesspeople, couples, same-sex groups, kids (there’s a children’s menu), hipsters and seniors. The charming Rafih Benjelloun is the owner and chef at Imperial Fez, open since 1991. Prior to moving to Atlanta, he presided over restaurants in San Francisco and Colorado. He’s also been featured on the Food Network, and he and his wife, Rita, created a special Valentine dinner at the prestigious James Beard house called from “Morocco With Love” earlier this year. He speaks seven languages, and he’s active in both the worldwide and Atlanta culinary communities. Every night the gregarious Rafih socializes with his customers, smiling and exhorting them to experience the exotic charms of his country. His enthusiasm is contagious, so you forgive the occasional misstep of a restaurant that is so irrepressibly evocative and fun. We start by leaving our shoes at the door and passing through a shop of trinkets such as inlaid wooden boxes, jewelry, lamps and clothing. We are ushered into a sexy, tented den festooned with silk pillows and scattered with carpets. The lighting is low and candles flicker; the ceiling is beautifully upholstered. Once seated at a low table dressed in blood red linen, we are handed a generous towel to place on our left shoulders so we can wipe our hands. It’s not elegant, but it’s efficient. Since we are dining on a weekend, we place our order for a three- or five-course meal. A la carte is available on weekdays. We opt for a five-course (we select our entrées) and a languid two-hour dining experience. First, there’s a hand washing at the table with a huge silver pitcher and bowl. The indulgence starts with harirra, a smoky lentil bean soup we slurp like a cat slurps water — straight from the bowl. There is no cutlery here; that’s half the fun. We eat with our hands, pinching bites with our fingers or using bread to scoop up our meal. We completely dive in — that’s what the towel is for, remember? Next up is my favorite course: the shlada, a variety of Moroccan salads. I think I counted five salads on the circular tray, representing bright, smoky and mild flavors. Potatoes and fava beans, cubed tomatoes, an eggplant puree — they are all heavenly and distinct. I don’t normally like carrots but The Fez makes them memorable: fabulous discs that manage to be both sweet and hot (the secret I learned is orange blossom water). Yummy. Bring more bread, please. B’stella is a traditional Cornish hen appetizer. Fowl is baked inside a light phyllo pastry that is dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar. It may sound incongruous, but trust me, it’s fabulous and you don’t want to miss it. Mohammed comes over to snap our picture, and we buy it for $8. Tagine is the national food of Morocco and refers both to the covered, clay, hat-shaped vessel as well as the finished dish, so for my entrée I order a lamb tagine with lemon and olives, knowing it would be tender due to the cooking method. Health-conscious Rafih doesn’t cook with fat, so some things are a bit under-flavored to me, such as the accompanying couscous. When I mention this, he whisks out some luscious artichokes, and I am again blissful. My friend has the fish tagine, which is a bit too boney for our comfort. If you are vegetarian, there are a myriad of options. Finally, hot mint tea is served along with a dessert plate of fresh fruit (lychee, pineapple, grapes, apples) and a delicious filled pastry scented with that lovely orange blossom water Rafih distills. It’s easy to have leftovers from the feast. If so, the staff brings an elegant black box embossed with a gold logo for carryout — tres chic. My quibbles? Only Moroccan wines are available by the glass, and they are too often thin and bitter. There’s a better selection by the bottle. And the service, although well meaning, is often a bit rushed (more than one course appearing before you are finished with its predecessor). So, if you’ve found yourself in the doldrums of too much Chinese takeout, try The Fez. It’s as near to North Africa as you are likely to find without jetlag. And, frankly, it’s fun to lounge around like royalty while eating with your hands. I’ve got the Polaroid to prove it. The Imperial Fez is located at 2285 Peachtree Road. For reservations, call (404)351-1272. |
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