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Loca Luna
by Suzanne Wright

It must be four years ago now that I threw a birthday party for my then-boyfriend who happened to be Latin-American. He didn’t often let it all hang out, but because I had gifted him with a very colorful shirt and because Loca Luna was just two blocks from my home, I thought it would be the perfect gathering spot for 20 of our closet friends, an eclectic group that included corporate types, entrepreneurs, artists, men and women, married, singles and parents ranging from their early 30s to mid 50s. By the end of the evening, said boyfriend was dancing on the table, having loosed his inner salsa dancer. As I remember it, former owner Paul Luna was still shucking his shirt and cavorting around, so my boyfriend kept Luna at bay. Everyone else in our party was behaving in a similarly ebullient fashion—even when settling the massive bill (20 people can eat and drink a lot of stuff in four hours). It was a memorable evening.

That was then, this is now. I’ve attended a few gatherings since then and visited the place on several occasions since that night and I can report it still has the same irrepressible vibe. The only difference is more people know about the place and the crowd is a bit younger, a bit more Buckhead than it was before. Loca Luna means “crazy moon” in Spanish, so it all makes sense.

Loca Luna’s formula works well: combine live Latin music with inexpensive eats, tropical-themed décor, exotic drinks and a vibrant crowd and you get fun, fun, fun, whether you are in Miami Beach or Midtown Atlanta. Loca Luna, was voted one of USA Today’s top spots for dancing, so take that, Backstreet! (They are located in the same block.)

Back in the day, Loca Luna was one of the pioneers of tapas, a now-ubiquitous concept for all manner of struggling restaurants. (It’s former sister, Eclipse de Luna, was the other trailblazer). And although American tapas don’t often echo their glorious Spanish counterparts, you can have fun hopscotching through the menu here.

This isn’t haute dining. The best strategy is to order a variety of small plates to share. They comprise the bulk of the menu and will run you $5-7 a pop; there are also soft tacos ($3 each) and a made-to-order paella (topping the list at $19). There’s a fairly limited selection for vegetarians (potatoes, mozzarella cheese, empanadas), but carnivores will do just fine. Chef Fidel Perez turns out solid food for rock-bottom prices, so don’t expect free-range chicken. Still, the calamari isn’t chewy and the ribs aren’t fatty.

I love eating in the courtyard, which evokes New Orleans with its brick walls, fountain, wrought iron chairs and greenery. There’s higher-energy verve in the main dining room, where the band plays. You’ll see some very accomplished dancers, but lots of beginners, too, on the floor. Everyone is having an alcohol-spiked blast.

I love, love, love the ostiones, crispy sautéed oysters served in the shell with a smoky coconut curry cream. The cherry tomato and house made mozzarella salad is enlivened with pesto and don’t miss the costillas espanolas, tender grilled ribs in a sherry reduction. The Parmesan potatoes harken back to mom’s scalloped ones and will stick to your ribs. The full-size fish tacos are chock full of tilipia and served with a creamy dipping sauce. A bottle of Riax Baixas, a floral Spanish wine, or a minty mojito, is a great accompaniment to the food.

You’ll be hard-pressed to find a more convivial time in the city, whether you’re with a date or a group of 20. Go ahead and surrender: soak in the Latin rhythms, lap up a plate of plantains and slurp on a Caipirinha, Brazil’s lime, sugar and firewater national drink, with abandon. You might even go a little “loca” yourself whether it’s your birthday or not.

Loca Luna is located at 836 Juniper Street , Suite B, Atlanta, GA 30308; 404-874-4494. www.Loca-Luna.com.
From top: barillas de pollo; Brian Fasthoff; callos de acha sesamo; costillas espanolas; lula frita; medallon de puerco; rollo de pollo.