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| Tierra by Victoria Forrest One of the best rewards for a dining reviewer is finding esoteric, innovative restaurants, where the creation of the meal is just as important as the ambiance or service. Ticha and Dan Krinsky, owners and chefs of Tierra, have brought the flavors of South America to their small, contemporary restaurant located at 1425 Piedmont Avenue. The offerings are designed to showcase cuisines from South and Central America. The Latin flair stands alone in quality and presentation. The Black Bean Soup with apple cured bacon, platanos fritos and creme fraiche, is some of the best that I have ever tasted. It is not a just a soup, but rather layers upon layers of complex flavors that create a marvelously rich taste for your palate. It is, simply put, delicious. The Empanada de horno a la Chilena-Traditional beef Empanada is a Latin American turnover, in this case filled with seasoned beef, egg, olives and raisins. Perfect for sharing, but you won’t want to, it’s simply too delicious. Combine that with the light flavors of the House Salad, mixed lettuce with cucumbers, tomatoes and pistachios in a sherry vinaigrette and the meal is off to a sparkling start. Entrees included the Shrimp sautéed and baked in Brazilian cheese, served with rice and calabaza, a pumpkin like squash grown in the Caribbean and Central and South America. The taste is similar to a butternut squash but is sweeter and a bit firmer. The shrimp are sautéed, then placed over the rice and oven baked with the layer of the mild, white Brazilian cheese covering the shrimp, so with every mouthful you get this wonderful pairing of flavors and an incredible mixture of ingredients. Also, brilliantly prepared was the Seared salmon and mixed potato pancakes in a light smoked pepper cream. An excellent choice for seafood lovers. It is composed and created with noted care which produced a presentation that would rival any entree, any where. Every selection was so dauntingly delicious it would be impossible to pick a favorite. Other entrees included Grilled grouper with peanut sauce, rice and kale bahia, Grilled pork medallions with warm fruit compote and chipotle mashed potatoes and Argentine beef tenderloin with Mayan green sauce and cheese served with gordita ( a thick tortilla that is pan fried). If you would prefer a vegetable plate, your choices are any three sides for ($10.25 ) four side dishes for ($13.95). Side dishes include chipotle mashed potatoes, calabaza (butternut like squash), sautéed kale bahia, platanos fritos (a large banana which must be cooked - it’s so delicious!), warm fruit compote, white rice, potato pancakes or canary beans. All in all, a wonderful variety without compromising the South American authenticity. Dessert is a must and you might find the choices difficult, but I highly recommend the Tres Leches (three milks). A white cake soaked in three milks after baking and topped with a soft meringue. A flavor sensation that melts in your mouth. More dessert choices include Salvadoran Fig Pie, Fresh Mango Tart, Guava and Cheese Roll and Tierra Lime Ice Cream. As you will discover when you dine at Tierra, it is like taking a South American culinary adventure. All the dishes are worthy of a first class rating in a comfortable casual dining arena. Tierra, Flavor of the Americas, is located at 1425 Piedmont Avenue. For reservations, call 404-874-5951. |
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| from top: Argentine beef tenderloin; Salvadoran Fig pie; Owners Dan & Ticha Krinsky. |
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