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| Taka; A Fresh Approach to Sushi by Paul Frysh Moriuchi Takao was formerly the guy in charge of sushi at the tony Buckhead Life restaurant, Blue Point, so I already knew he was no slouch with a sushi knife. He has since left to open his own sushi bar called Taka, (which also happens to be his handle at the sushi bar). This was my first visit. Located across from the old Oxford bookstore on Pharr Road in Buckhead in what was formerly a space occupied by Taco Mac is a relatively small space of about 1,000 square foot. The place is more neighborhood sushi bar than super-chic hotspot, but personally, that’s the way I prefer it. It is decorated in a very pleasing Mediterranean blue and though they could use a little help with the lighting, the overall feel of the place is tidy and pleasant. Despite it’s newness, Taka seems to have its act together. Even with a full house, the service was efficient and everything seemed to be humming along without a hitch. Our waitress was quite knowledgeable about the food offerings, which was a good thing because the menu is not big on detailed descriptions. This doesn’t bother me a scrap but picky eaters are advised to ask first or stick with the basics. And in my humble opinion, if you stick with the basics, you will miss out on the best stuff on the menu, namely, the appetizers. We started with the Cured Flounder Sashimi with Needle Ginger and Shitake Mushrooms. A subtle and delicate dish that is reminiscent of the ethereal creations of Atlanta’s own sushi genius Soto, this dish is best enjoyed before anything else clouds your palate. An excellent tofu dish in a light sauce with shitake mushrooms and scallions was next. Unusual and flavorful without being heavy, the tofu was a hit at our table. Some shrimp and pork steamed dumplings, though certainly nothing out of the ordinary, were savory and satisfying none-the-less. In fact, all of the starters we had were very good and though the sushi was excellent too, it’s these innovative appetizer creations that are the most interesting. We didn’t get to other dishes that were calling my name like Toasted Sea Urchin with Shiso Calamari and Shimeji Mushrooms; Garlic Pepper seared Tuna with Daikon Radish Noodle; and Soba Noodles with Tuna, Enoki Mushroom, Mitsuba Leaf, and Ground Radish. But they are all part of what promises to be a revolving door of exciting culinary creations featured by Mr. Takao. I don’t mean to detract from the main event at Taka – the sushi that we had was very good. It’s just that good sushi is fairly accessible around Atlanta, while Taka’s starter creations are fresh and often unique to his restaurant. Ruby red fresh tuna; buttery fresh, belly-cut yellowtail -- we could not try them all, but judging by what we had and by all appearances, the standard sushi fare is first rate. Taka also has the typical sushi-bar shtick of giving amusing names to customer created sushi rolls. A salmon filled Home Depot Roll is like a deli breakfast without the bagel and there is a Copacabana Roll named for Barry Manilow who, one assumes, had a special request. Typically, dessert is not a huge draw at Japanese restaurants, but we thought we would give it a whirl. At the risk of seriously upsetting Tony Soprano, we ordered the Green Tea Tiramisu. Hmm… It certainly wasn’t terrible, but no one at the table was exactly thrilled with it. Other culturally schizophrenic desserts that would make Tony’s ex-right-hand-man turn over in his (watery) grave include Cappuccino Flan, and something called a Japanese Neapolitan. Taka is a welcome bit of “intimate and charming” in an exhausting sea of extravagant Buckhead eateries. Judging from the packed house on Tuesday night, there is already a buzz about the place. If first impressions are any indication, their initial success is well deserved and if the standard is maintained, the buzz will only get louder. Highly recommended. Taka is located at 385 Pharr Road. Their phone number is (404) 869-2082. |
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| from top: Assorted sushi; Chef/owner Moriuchi Takao; Green Tea Tiramisu. |
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