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| Atlanta's Top French Restaurants by Sylvia Hidiroglou Atlanta’s restaurant scene boasts an assortment of French restaurants, each with its own finesse and all with an ‘Oh So French’ flavor. As you pay a visit to these establishments, keep in mind that culinary styles and presentation vary, yet the establishments are in a sense connected -- if not by virtue of having worked together at some point, then by reputation and referral. It’s like visiting an island! Joel Joël’s palatial renditions of traditionally unsophisticated carte du jour dishes, like tomato soup and sardines, represent a culinary passion for simple elegance. The chilled gazpacho with tomato sorbet prepared with a hint of olive oil and garnished with a sprig of chervil cleverly alleviates the acidity of tomatoes and creates a refreshing impression of what to expect. The fresh sardines stuffed with pureed olives, roasted tomatoes, crushed peppers and a delicate infusion of garden herbs were simply delicious. According to owners Joël and Ellen Antunes, “preparation, precision and presentation are essential ingredients to success.” Culinary curiosity paved the way for Joël, who was raised by his grandparents in the Volvic region of Southern France, which is famous for natural spring water. “Joël has created his own unique style,” says long-time friend and general manager Frederic Serol. Beyond the cooking experience he gained in Southern France and later as a chef at the Ritz-Carlton in Buckhead, Joël traveled and worked in remote areas and tropical regions of the world, including parts of Indo-China and French-speaking Africa. Unsurprisingly, his version of breast of duck is cooked with Swiss chard, accompanied by baby Chinese cabbage delicately dipped in Miso soy and served with fried polenta. Groot Constantia, a South African red wine, complements this exotic entrée. High ceilings, recessed lighting, pewter décor and halogen lamps add neutral charm to the carefully choreographed surroundings complete with soft jazz and meticulous service. A truly apt setting for a course of lobster-filled zucchini blossom drizzled with bouillabaisse sauce and served over saffron rice. “The sweetness is in the spice,” murmured my dining companion in between mouthfuls of savory flavor and sips of a creamy-textured, full-bodied wine from Sonoma County (recommended by head sommelier/wine-connoisseur, Philippe Buttin). Freshly baked pastries and delicious desserts are prepared from scratch. The in-house patisserie includes devilish delights like Chocolate Banana Dariole (warm cake with banana crème); Risky Napoleon (three layers of pastry served with whisky crème and caramel ice-cream); traditional puff pastry with pistachio and custard filling; and crème brulee served with seasonal fruit. The spectacular bar offers booth seating and live music on Wednesdays. Located inside The Forum (an upscale venue known as the Piazza at Paces on Northside Parkway), Joël is a fine addition to Atlanta’s five-star restaurant scene. Visit their website at www.joelrestaurant.com or call (404)233-3500 for reservations. Soleil Nestled in a residential neighborhood in Buckhead is a small French restaurant featuring a café, bistro, bar and grill called Soleil Bistro. In business since 1996, owners Jacques Hourtal and Laurent Servais know what it takes to keep their customers happy, come rain or shine (there’s a covered patio dining area, a petite bar and private function room.) Dishes are prepared on the lighter side and complement the casual and relaxed atmosphere. “I keep away from using flour and heavy sauces,” says Hourtal. Mussels la Rochelle is cooked with garlic and white wine, sprinkled with saffron for coloring and flavored with a hint of curry. “No rubbery texture!” exclaimed my dining companion, who, I might mention, is not typically a fan of edible mollusks. Risotto at Soleil is highly recommended. Depending on the day of the week, this blend of rice, stock, meat and herbs is either prepared with shrimp and sea scallops, chicken and mushroom or grilled lamb chops. During our visit, the day’s risotto was served with lamb and cooked to perfection in a light brown sauce. Penne pasta with capers and eggplant works well with this popular entrée. The chicken breast entrée is lightly stuffed with the “herbs of the Provençe” explained Hourtal. This flavorful entrée is typically served with delicately whipped potatoes and chicken broth. Pan-fried sea bass flavored with a touch of cumin and served with broccoli is a must for seafood lovers. Hourtal attended cooking school in Switzerland and worked in an exclusive restaurant in London before moving to the United States. Prior to opening his own restaurant, Hourtal co-founded Anis. “I wanted to be my own boss and do things my own way” he cheerfully admitted. In between sips of muscat wine and coconut-flavored crème brulee, I had to agree the different flavor was appealing. Much of Hourtal’s style of cooking captures the essence of blending Southern French cuisine with flavors from former French colonies, like the Ivory Coast in French-speaking West Africa. Cumin, saffron and curry are fused with basil, thyme, oregano and chives. If you’d like to eat, drink and be merry in an inexpensive and friendly restaurant where the owners know you by name, join the rest of the steady regulars who’ve been dining at Soleil for years. Soleil Bistro is open Monday through Sunday. Call (404)467-1790 for more information. Brasserie Le Coze Brasseries emerged in France at the turn of the century and became popular in train stations. These convenient restaurants served comfort food and alcoholic beverages to weary travelers and their companions. Dining and socializing en route to one’s destination is a timeless phenomenon, and brasseries exist in one form or another in areas of thriving commerce. Recognizing Atlanta’s Lenox Square as a major commercial hotspot of the South, Madame Le Coze introduced Brasserie Le Coze to Atlanta in 1994. On any given day, a host of shoppers, workers, travelers and local residents converge at this popular venue to enjoy everything from Quiche Lorraine to sumptuously prepared seafood dishes. General manager Fabrice Vergez has strict rules as far as not cutting corners. “We make our own stock from scratch and don’t use any powder starch” agrees chef Jonathan Schwenk. No wonder the white bean soup cooked in white truffle oil and sprinkled with chives tastes so fresh and light! Following an artful appetizer of Mussels Mariniere steamed in white wine, shallots, garlic butter, a touch of cream and a dash of lemon juice, my dining companion and I enjoyed finely prepared fish and steak entrees. The fish dish was skate served on a bed of spinach and drizzled with a brown butter sauce. If you’re not familiar with this marine fish, it has the tender sweetness of lobster. Particular care is taken when preparing skate, since marine fish generally have a short shelf life. The steak dish was marinated seared skirt steak. It tasted divine. Add pommes frites (French fries cooked in brandied butter with mild hints of dill, tarragon, chives and garlic) and, voila, c’est magnifique! The wine list features around 80 wines served by the glass and bottle. Sweets include crème brulee, banana torte and the Brasserie’s signature dessert, chocolate soufflé. Other menu items, like Quiche Lorraine, along with a repertoire of pates, salads, soups and sandwiches, capture the essence of typical French flavors. Originally, the owners had intended to open a chain of brasseries similar to the pioneer restaurant in Coconut Grove, Miami. “After Hurricane Andrew hit, the restaurant was destroyed, and we decided to open our brasserie here in Atlanta,” recalls Fabrice. The ambient atmosphere is definitely French, complete with tiled floors, jazz music and flavors from the Bernadine region, and is just the right place to gather with friends or co-workers for lively banter! Call 404-266-1440 for further information. Anis The art of French cuisine resides in a quixotic and quaint restaurant by the name of Anis. Fresh flowers, soft music, ceiling fans and cozy corners accentuate the affable appeal of this house turned haven. I’ll never forget my first trip to Anis because it bespoke all of the above and more. The filet mignon was exquisitely prepared and the service was excellent. My second time around (the purpose of which was to write this review) was slightly less enchanting thanks to my culinary sense of adventure! My dining companion and I enjoyed smoked salmon eloquently garnished with capers, red onions and freshly-squeezed lemon, and mussels cooked in white wine and garlic butter accompanied by an endive salad delicately dressed with balsamic vinaigrette. Blue cheese, walnuts and cherry tomatoes appropriately accessorized this tasty salad. Appetizers were accompanied by refreshing white wine from the Alsace region. Go easy on the French bread while waiting for your main course. Allow yourself to be captivated by the interesting art deco that adorns the walls of this charming bistro. Or assess the ambience of romantic couples and feel the radiance of candlelit surroundings! While my dining companion feasted on Haricot au Vere, a venison dish served with a vegetable medley of green beans and squash, I scrutinized my main course with slight apprehension. (My adventurous spirit had prompted me to leave my choice of entrée open to suggestion). My attempts at experimenting with the flavor of sweetbread and pumpkin raviole were wholly unsuccessful, but I must admit, it’s a matter of personal taste. My medley of turnip greens and several helpings of haricot proved to be worth the trip. I delved into my dessert -- a delightfully creamy portion of crème brulee -- with a guilt-free conscience and, after a few sips of Cabernet Sauvignon, my taste buds were refreshingly restored. The location and ambience of Anis continues to attract regular customers, and I plan on continuing to enjoy the good food served at this reputable restaurant, only next time, I’ll be more selective! Call 404-233-9889 for reservations. Atmosphere A block north of Monroe Drive on Piedmont Road in midtown is a breath of fresh air, or should I say Atmosphere! You may find it slightly inconvenient to slow down on this very busy road as you make a turn into the driveway, but a taste of fabulous French food is definitely worth the turn! Character and charm make the dining experience a memorable one. My dining companion and I gave the evening a thumbs-up, as did the dining duo seated next to our table. “We love it here. We stop by all the time just to enjoy the food and atmosphere!” In the fall, fountains and trees surround the building, making it a perfect nesting ground for French food lovers. Affordability raises the cache. The thematic ingredient at Atmosphere is essentially French, not fusion. You’ll find dishes like raviole (typically associated with its Italian counterpart, ravioli) enhanced with flavorful spices that capture the culinary contribution of French cooking to territories around the world. The crab cakes encrusted with a light coating of toasted coconut and served with a delicate drizzle of pineapple chutney is highly recommended. We enjoyed a light version of Mussels Mariniere to allow room for our main courses of fish and duck. L’halibut au Fenouil consists of Alaskan halibut served over fennel, a native Eurasian plant. The flavor is somewhere in between melt-in-your-mouth and mouth-watering. A superbly prepared Dijon mustard heightens the flavor. Confit de Canard, a seasonal entrée served in the summer, was an equally exquisite dish. Duck legs cooked in their own juice with a hint of truffle essence accompany superbly roasted potatoes, fresh-tasting green beans and baby carrots. Chocolate is prominently featured on the dessert menu, not to mention a selection of other colorful choices, including almond cookies and crème brulee. Owned by Jean-Marc Metigairie and Khristine Gervais, Atmosphere is located at 1620 Piedmont Avenue and also serves brunch on Sundays between 11:30 a.m. and 3 p.m. For more information, call (678) 702-1620. |
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| from top: Joel (Chef JoelAntunes pictured.) below: Brasserie Le Coze (Chef Jon Schwenk pictured.) below that: Anis (Chef Lenard Robinson pictured.) bottom of page: Atmosphere. |
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