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French Cuisine Gets Cozy with Atmosphere
by Jennifer Grzeskowiak

Fusion restaurants have become a staple of the Atlanta dining scene. In a departure from that trend, the owners of Atmosphere have opened a restaurant that gets back to tradition by offering classic French cuisine in a warm and intimate 1950s house-turned-restaurant. And although located on highly trafficked Piedmont Avenue, lush and ubiquitous greenery on both sides of the street surround the eatery, adding to its cozy appeal.

The interior of the renovated home is charming and reflective of a bistro, with red, yellow and green walls, and an abundance of paintings, photographs and vintage wine posters. Upon entering, a small bar within several strides of the doorway makes guests feel as if they are entering a friend’s home. Many of the original walls remain intact, dividing up the dining area for a more intimate feel. Sporadic pieces of distressed furniture add a rustic French element to the décor.

The spacious, uncovered patio area is just as distinct and provides plenty of tables to accommodate diners during pleasant weather. While in close proximity to the street, a gate, shrubbery and trees enclose the area, making it feel less exposed. Diners can sit and chat while enjoying the moving scene of neighborhood joggers and people walking their dogs. And on Tuesdays and Thursdays starting at 7:30, live musicians further soothe guests by playing French and jazz music and well-known American songs with a French twist.

The menu was dreamed up by chef Robert Guillou, formerly of Azure Bistro and Joël, along with co-owners Christine Gervais and Jean-Marc Metaine, all of whom hail from southern France. Changed seasonally, it offers the perfect variety of seafood, meat and vegetarian options without being overwhelming. Entrées range from mussels and salmon to hanger steak and rack of lamb. Diners who want to sit on the patio and enjoy a drink can create a light meal from the soups, appetizers or salads. The wine list is comprehensive and features a fair number of reasonably priced French wines.

To start the meal, the restaurant’s signature appetizer, marinated escargot baked in garlic butter, is a favorite of patrons and is prepared with a secret element that the owners say distinguishes it from other versions of the classic French dish. One must-try salad combines pungent Roquefort cheese, spicy Anjou pears and bits of crunchy walnuts for texture, in addition to mesclum and balsamic vinaigrette. The goat cheese crotin appetizer is also enjoyable, especially the first few tastes when the cheese is still hot. Accompanying marinated tomatoes and black olives stand up to the slight bite of the cheese.

For an entrée, the traditional dish of mussels and fries is a satisfying combination. The mussels are fresh (not at all gritty or fishy) and the broth is a light stew of white wine and juice from the seafood. The homemade fries are earthy and tender. The sautéed scallops are also a good pick, served with spinach ravioli and a not-too-heavy cream sauce of mushrooms and truffle emulsion. Mushrooms are always a great pairing with truffles and together they add a fragrant, rich and flavorful element to the light scallops. Gervais also recommends one of her favorites, the slow-cooked duck legs confit, while Metaine says the bouillabaisse seafood stew with saffron fish soup, which was just added to the menu, is ideal for the warmer weather.

Any of the desserts should be savored with a cup of the restaurant’s bold coffee. The profiteroles are particularly delicious and bring together cold creamy ice cream, a flaky pastry outside and warm drizzled chocolate. Favorite standbys, such as crème brulee, are available as well.

Each course of the meal arrives at a leisurely European pace, which makes for a perfectly timed and relaxing meal. Servers stop by or glance over frequently to ensure that diners are content between and during dishes. There seems to be a number of regulars who dine at the restaurant and converse with the staff, creating a convivial feel.
While serving more traditional French food, Atmosphere manages to maintain an intimate and laidback feel. The restaurant excels at integrating the bustle of the area with its own more subdued ambience, creating a small haven within the city.

Atmosphere also caters dinners and events through its service Prestige Gourmet. For details, call (404) 477-0177 or peruse www.prestigegourmet.net.

Atmosphere is located at 1620 Piedmont Ave. Hours of operation are from 6:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. For a list of events and more information, call (678) 702-1620 or visit www.atmospherebistro.com.

from top:
Carpaccio of Beef; Mussels; Warm Goat Cheese Crotin; Sea Bass; Owners; Apple Tart; Profiterols.