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Joel
by M. Berman

Joel is a unique French Brassiere, created by the award-winning chef Joel Antune. With its sleek design and inviting ambience, Joel really means business. The bar and lounge area is reminiscent of a futuristic movie, with its multi-colored lighted surfaces and clean design. Seating in this area is very intimate and soft conversations are the norm. The design effort by chef Joel, in collaboration with the Johnson Studio, creates an interior which beckons you to sit and enjoy the many culinary delights. Heavy with natural fabrics, leather, tall glass, high ceilings and mixed colors of wood, the design has a relaxing effect. Draped steel light fixtures combined with recessed lighting by designer Chris Moulder adds to the soft ambience.

During the lunch hour, the entire restaurant takes on a light, open and airy feel as the sun shines through the large expanses of tall glass. Parquet designs in leather, accentuate the seating areas, while the supportive chairs slide effortlessly and quietly along the wooden floor. The floor is done in large light colored woods, bordered with dark short wood sections. The contrast makes a wonderful visual statement. At the entrance to the kitchen, an imported Italian tile wall comprised of mandarin orange, red and rust colored squares add a touch of pizazz to the room. Everywhere your eye moves, gorgeous flower arrangements present a visual extravaganza.

To make this restaurant memorable to its customers, chef Joel brought in a group of international all-star culinary associates. Philippe Buttin, the sommelier and Frederic Serol, general manager, are both from Mirabelle in London. The pastry chef, Phippipe Givre, and sous chef, Robert Guillou, are also both from world renown restaurants, and the wait staff is comprised of seasoned professionals.

With Joel’s reputation, many are bound to expect a high price tag. Fortunately, this is not the case. Diners could easily spend the same amount for two people at a far lesser restaurant and never come close to the caliber of food that is presented at Joel.
Given everything on the menu, we chose to go with a tasting dinner, which provided two or three items from each section of the menu. Miloud Azzaoui, Philippe Buttin’s assistant, provided a wonderful choice of wines to go with each selection. The serving began with gazpacho with tomato sorbet and olive oil. Next came the roast breast of quail with lentil salsa and daikon radish. These were presented very well and created a true desire to experience the next go-round. Our entrees consisted of a wonderfully prepared sea bass, tomato lasagna and tapenade followed by the very tender braised beef ribs with tamarind and rutabaga. The food presentation alone is worth the visit. Sadly, after the braised ribs, the festival of culinary creativity was at an end. Our double shot dessert of a pineapple, coconut sorbet and lemongrass sauce followed by a coffee opaline and granite was a palate cleanser that left us wanting more. Alas, a reason to return.

Joel is open for lunch Monday to Friday from 11:30am to 2:00pm. If the menu does not strike a chord, or if you simply do not have time to stay and dine, head for the gourmet to-go patisserie. From a sandwich such as a Portobello Mushroom, Sweet Pepper Confit, Goat Cheese, Arugula and Sun-dried Tomato Paste to traditional bakery goods such as croissants, brioches and a wonderful selection of gourmet cakes, you can eat healthy and hearty.

Joel is located at the Piazza at Paces at 3290 Northside Parkway. For reservations, call (404) 233-3500.
from top:
various delectibles from Joel. Chef Joel Antune.