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| Ethnic Eats: Italian by Suzanne Wright I used to live in Washington, D.C., a city that has nearly as many ethnic restaurants as it has ambassadors from far-flung places. I often travel to Manhattan, a city that boasts perhaps more great Italian trattorias per square mile than any place outside of Italy. Chicago and San Francisco, too, have their fair share of great Italian eateries. In my opinion, Atlanta has lacked the kind of memorable Italian restaurants so easy to find in those cities. Sure, we had a few corporate restaurants like Maggiano’s, with competent fare, and a few local chains that served red-sauce variety Southern Italian cuisine. And although our city still hasn’t produced the kind of hole-in-wall joints you find in London or Philadelphia, two of our city’s most enduring Italian restaurants have made major — and welcome — changes in the kitchen, resulting in the kind of authentic fare so difficult to find. Pricci and La Tavola are restaurants reborn, regaining relevancy among Atlanta’s Italian eateries. I must admit, I was never a fan of glossy Pricci, part of the Buckhead Life Group. But that all changed. Ebullient, Milan-born Chef Piero Premoli has made many dramatic contributions since his arrival. By upgrading the quality of the ingredients and the authenticity of the recipes, Premoli is showcasing the best of his country’s cuisine and, simultaneously, his talents. He has made many dramatic contributions since his arrival. His staff includes five full-time, recent culinary graduates from Italy who have made a year commitment to working at Pricci (75 percent of the restaurant’s staff is Italian), which keeps the cuisine at Pricci true to its regional roots. He is making his own seafood and meat charcuterie including tuna bresaola, orange marlin bresaola, sopressata and salami. If products aren’t house-made, they’re imported from Italy and most are DOP designated or artisinal and would be nearly impossible to obtain without his connections to Italian purveyors. Pricci now offers a wide selection of hard-to-find cheeses, pastas and olive oils, even selling some to loyal customers. The menu is moderately priced and offers exceptional value. Premoli, who comes from a family of dedicated chefs, says, “Most Italians have their place that they frequent on a regular basis — usually several times a week. Italians have high standards: they expect good food, a variety of items on the menu and a friendly staff. We create that environment at Pricci each and every day.” Chef Premoli feels simple is best. On a recent dinner visit, I was nonplussed at the dramatically successful shift and the sheer exuberance of the chef and the staff. A trio of cold gigamoto oysters were paired with pesto, ahi tuna and midori melon and served in their shells and presented on a bed of rock salt — genius with a Sardinian white wine with nuances of ash. The hot appetizers included another threesome: a luscious lobster porcini crepe, wild shrimp oreganato and George’s Banks scallops with eggplant. Braised polpo (baby octopus) was served with red wine vinegar and astonishing capers that Premoli says date from “Roman times.” Oregon black trumpet crusted ahi tuna was enhanced with a warm lentil salad, rustic but feather light, and pumpkin-and-ricotta-filled pasta with wild Georgia shrimp, tomatoes and shallots was satisfying. For dessert we had a smashingly simple and delicious chocolate gelato courtesy of Jennifer Atchison who has returned to the fold. Just like in a neighborhood trattoria in Italy, it’s not unusual to see Premoli walking the dining room, greeting guests and checking that all is cooked to their liking. He prides himself on learning guests’ preferences, constantly improving the menu and accommodating special requests. In fact, he says, “We’ve got many guests that come in two, three, four times each week and because we serve Italian comfort food, it’s never out of style. Plus, by using seasonal ingredients, we strive to keep the menu fresh and light. It’s easy to eat this food every day if you want to.” All dark woods and warm lighting, La Tavola Trattoria, in Virginia-Highland, has always been a cozy, appealing restaurant (where else do you hear Frank Sinatra and Elvis?). Now, it’s also a great place to eat. Chef Craig Richards brings eight years of culinary experience to La Tavola, a member of Fifth Group Restaurants. Richards worked most recently as executive chef for Lidia’s Pittsburgh, where he was responsible for preparing regional Italian food and developing seasonal menus with Lidia Bastianich, acclaimed restaurateur and renowned first lady of Italian cuisine. The menu features antipasti, primi, secondi and dolce, but Richards puts a contemporary spin on traditional dishes. At La Tavola, Richards often whisks diners off their plates. “We have a loyal regular clientele,” he says. “It’s how I learned names.” “In Italy, the table (la tavola) is the favorite place for friends and family to gather not just for eating, but also for laughter and conversation,” says co-owner Robby Kukler. “Families love sharing their mealtime with old and new friends. Our restaurant feels like that — very hospitable and cozy, just like home.” A recent dinner affirmed the café’s success. Starters included a slightly briny burrata served with broccoli rabe pesto and sundried tomatoes and with crostini and spongy sea scallops with Anson Mills polenta and sautéed spinach. We sampled three starches: sweet, creamy leek risotto with truffled mushrooms topped with crispy speck (bacon); pleasantly bitter orecchiette (“little ears”) with sausage and rabe; and spicy penne arrabiata with plump shrimp. For our main courses we tucked into pork saltimbocca, which honored its name by “jumping in our mouths” and sprightly swordfish piccata, perhaps a tad thicker and drier than expected. Don’t miss the sides of roasted brussel sprouts with pancetta and fregola, a cross between couscous and pearl pasta with seasonal root vegetables. Desserts are now being made in house and both the free-form tiramisu and the special blueberry/blackberry crostata with honey gelato were splendid. Our server, Caroline, was friendly and polished. In honor of the Winter Olympics, the restaurant is unveiling a Torino menu highlighting the food from Piedmont for two weeks in February. Buon appetito! Pricci: 500 Pharr Road NE, Atlanta, 30305; (404) 237-2941; www.buckheadrestaurants.com. La Tavola: 992 Virginia Avenue NE, Atlanta, 30306; (404) 873-5430; www.fifthgroup.com. |
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