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| Hsu’s Gourmet Chinese by Christine Woodhouse Unless you are an out-of-town conventioner or happen to work in a nearby downtown office building, you’ve probably never heard of Hsu’s Gourmet Chinese, much less been there. The restaurant has held its corner spot on Peachtree Center Avenue and Andrew Young International Boulevard since 1991 but remains undiscovered by most Atlantans. Hsu’s is Atlanta’s best kept secret antidote for all of the questionable buffets of chewy meat in congealed sauce you’ve ever endured. The experience starts from the street where Hsu’s owners, Anna and Raymond Hsu, have transformed the entire corner into a display that belongs in Disney’s Epcot Center. The traditional Asian architecture stands out from surrounding cement structures with its deep red color and outward curving buttresses. Opaque windows run the length of the restaurant displaying Chinese paintings. The entrance is unmistakable, marked by a set of oversized, beveled, red wooden doors – thankfully not as heavy as they look. Hsu’s interior draws you further into the Asian theme with beautiful vases, dark lacquered wood accents and delicate white sculptures. Low lighting and quietly attentive servers complete the restaurant’s calm and elegant mood. Before my visit to Hsu’s, I laughed off the idea of gourmet Chinese food as an oxymoron. I wondered how any cuisine that included batter fried shrimp all puffed up in a tempura coating, then covered in bright pink sweet and sour sauce could be construed as gourmet. One dinner at Hsu’s forced me to rethink that shallow-minded stereotype. My first clue was the place setting, which included an ornate silver pedestal displaying chopsticks between a fork, knife and spoon. White napkins were artistically folded and arranged on fine china. I understood quickly why Anna and Raymond have done so well over the years. They know how to set the mood. And after 15+ years in the business, they’re still doing it with meticulous attention to detail and respectful appreciation for tradition. The evening’s specials were conveniently printed on a small tent card and we decided the assorted appetizers would be a great way to let the sampling begin. We tried country-style spring rolls, shrimp satay and grilled duck dumpling. In place of standard, neatly wrapped cylindrical spring rolls, we were presented with more of a roughly shaped, fried dumpling. The dense filling of shredded pork inside a soft, doughy coating was a satisfying start to the meal. However, the grilled shrimp, skewered and presented with pineapple garnish, won the most praise. Perfectly seared on the outside and soft and meaty inside, the shrimp burst with its own flavor and only got better when dipped in the sweet red sauce. The grilled duck dumpling also earned high accolades for its unique twist on a traditional favorite. Pulled duck meat mingled with soft cabbage inside a perfectly seared sheath of pasta. After a thorough survey of the menu and its many temptations, we settled on Peking duck, one of the chef’s specialties, and steamed Chilean sea bass. In most restaurants, Peking duck requires serious lead time but chef Charlie Shan has perfected a top secret method that allows him to serve it on demand. I was immediately impressed by the concept of one entrée providing three courses and, later, even more delighted when the waiter prepared the first course tableside. He delicately removed the duck’s crispy roasted skin in quick, deft motions, placing it in warm crepes with Hoisin sauce. He tightly rolled the crepes using chopsticks and presented us with two rolls each. Ignoring the appetizer’s blatant disregard for nutrition, I bit into the roll with devious anticipation. The cloyingly sweet sauce dripped from the soft flour wrapping and, along with the crispy filling, equaled pure satisfaction, thus justifying the risk to my arteries. The second course was a soup of thick brown broth, mushrooms and pulled duck meat – flavorful but not too heavy. It tided us over nicely while we anxiously awaited the “grilled” third course. Finally, the platter of duck arrived in crispy, bite-size pieces covered in a honey soy sauce. Now de-boned, the entire duck was before us, along with steamed broccoli in a traditional brown sauce. The sweet, tangy sauce did not overpower but rather enriched the delicious dark duck meat. It was outstanding. The Chilean seabass did not compete on the same level as the Peking duck, instead occupying a refreshing space all its own, on the lighter side. Hsu’s serves it Hong Kong style with bok choy in a dark broth. Large shavings of ginger sneak up on you amidst the greens, adding bite to an otherwise tame plate. As my friend pointed out, it’s not always safe to trust seafood at a Chinese restaurant but Hsu’s is a clear exception. You would be missing out if you didn’t try it here. For their vegetarian guests, or those of us with an eye on our waistlines, Hsu’s offers a deliciously light option called monk’s delight. The fresh snap of barely steamed Chinese vegetables mixed with tofu leaves you feeling healthy and superior while the light white sauce ensures the satisfaction of an authentic Chinese dining experience. This dish is worth ordering for the tangy mushrooms alone. Out of pure curiosity, we tried the leeche nuts on ice for dessert. The waiter explained that leeche nuts are a Chinese fruit with an apricot taste. I was fascinated by their appearance, likening it to a giant albino raspberry. Hsu’s serves the fruit, seeds removed, in a small bowl of sweetened ice water. The taste is a surprising infusion of bubbles and, indeed, a flavor close to apricot. The cool fruit comes alive on your palate, capping off what is bound to be the best Chinese cuisine you will find in Atlanta. Hsu's is located at 192 Peachtree Center Avenue, Atlanta, Georgia 30303. For reservations call (404) 659-2788 or visit www.hsus.com. |
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