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| One Star Ranch by Ridgeley Standard A friend of mine once said that everyone needs a good barbecue restaurant close by. A true enough sentiment for any comfort food lover, but especially applicable to those of us who live in the South. Where good barbecue is synonymous with magnolias and hot summer nights and where everyone has an opinion on what exactly constitutes “good barbecue.” So, what could a Yankee possibly know about barbecue? As it turns out, quite a lot actually. Frank Bonk, owner and proprietor of One Star Ranch, was born in Philadelphia. He became involved in the restaurant business through his wife Pam’s family, who originally started the restaurant. Ten years ago he took over the management of the Buckhead location, formerly The Rib Ranch, after discovering he had a natural business sense and an aptitude for what needed improvement. Together, Bonk and his wife tripled the restaurant’s business. One year ago the Bonks took over the fledgling One Star Ranch in Alpharetta and have made it a success. The two restaurants are aesthetically as different as night and day. The Buckhead restaurant resembles a rustic shack with aging wood, creaky floors, and plenty of atmosphere. The Alpharetta restaurant invokes feelings of a Mexican cantina with bright colors and copper statuary. In addition, the Alpharetta location features a full bar. “The two restaurants have different looks and feels,” admits Bonk, “but the menu and food quality are identical. The food has been the same for twenty years. Consistency is very important. We focus exclusively on Texas style barbecue, lightly smoked with hickory flavor.” “I may be a Yankee,” Bonk says, “but I’m a Yankee with Southern hospitality.” Indeed, the minute one steps through the door they are greeted as though they are a personal friend. Bonk makes sure he is always at the front of the house. “Energy is essential. I have fun doing this. I consider it the best job I’ve ever had. I think of it as one big party that I am always hosting.” Luckily, it is a party with excellent food. I was treated to a virtual feast. I highly recommend the beef rib, a ridiculously large slab of meat. Bonk refers to it as “the Fred Flintstone beef rib” in reference to the fact that it is a foot long and almost two inches thick. The meat itself is tender, moist, and sweet. Both the pork ribs (not nearly as daunting in size though still a hearty portion) and beef ribs are lightly basted so that they are simply infused with barbecue flavor, not drowning in sauce. Extra sauce, a tangy tomato base, is offered on the side so that patrons may add to taste. If you prefer baby back ribs, they are offered in both half and full slab portions. A friend of mine who is always on a quest to find the perfect ribs considers these baby backs to be at the top of the list. For those who do not enjoy red meat, smoked turkey and smoked chicken are offered. The turkey I sampled was delicious, and wonderful with or without barbecue sauce. Here’s a tip – ask for the french fries seasoning for your turkey for a delicious alternative to barbecue sauce. If looking for a lighter meal, BBQ sandwiches and salads are available. A large selection of side orders is available to complement dinner plates and are all homemade from scratch daily. The Brunswick stew is thick and hearty, not at all soupy, with a very definite barbecue flavor. The Mexican cornbread is sweet and surprisingly moist with just enough jalapenos to give your mouth a kick. And should you have room for dessert, an array of homemade treats is available. “Everything is fresh,” promises Bonk. “We are cooking for twenty four hours a day. I am always raising the bar for quality. Freshness is key. I will throw food out if it is not fresh rather than sacrifice quality.” While the Buckhead restaurant benefits from a long and established history, Bonk has to establish a new reputation in Alpharetta. To accomplish this he focuses on the atmosphere and has fashioned a glorified blues club. Blues music plays continuously over the stereo system and live bands are featured on Saturday nights. So, if you desire good barbecue and a good time, visit either location of One Star Ranch. Just be sure to visit hungry. One Star Ranch Buckhead is located at 25 Irby Avenue in the heart of Buckhead. The Alpharetta location is at 732 North Main Street, one mile South of Windward Parkway. They are open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. |
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| from top: Barbecue and the Gang at One Star. |
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