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| Cooking with Fire by Jennifer Grzeskowiak Pulling up to Woodfire Grill and the Café at Woodfire, I was immediately struck by how stunning, yet simple, the building was. As I left a couple of hours later, I felt the same way about the food. Inside, the restaurant is somewhat of a rustic, yet stylish, playground for true foodies, with each turn offering something new. After passing through heavy, dark wood doors, diners enter a laid back bistro area sporting a bar and display case of meats and cheeses. Low lighting and a lack of noise impart a subdued atmosphere. In addition to being scattered among the small tables, casual diners chat quietly while tucked up to the bar. Passing the hostess stand into the next dining space offers the surprise of a whole other restaurant. The main dining area, which resembles a long, wide hallway, is made cozy by thick wood benches, dark floors, stucco-style walls and what appear to be large hammered tin discs hanging from the ceiling. Additional dining space is set away up a flight of stairs. While passing between the café and the restaurant, diners shouldn’t hesitate to stop and admire the climate-controlled case where the artisan cheeses are housed or to view the open grill where chef/owner Michael Tuohy can usually be found. Once seated, the wine list, with its out-of-the-ordinary options, is another delight, put together by wine director Greg Koetting. In addition to full glasses and bottles, the wines are offered by half-glasses for diners wanting to try something new with each course. The Northern California-meets-Mediterranean menu, which changes daily to accommodate available ingredients, is divided into tastes, small plates and grilled and baked entrees. Tastes include simple favorites such as marinated olives and an olive oil tasting. Small plates range from fresh vegetables with cheeses to a generous portion of fritto misto made of white fish, calamari and shrimp. The difference between Woodfire and other similar-scale restaurants is made evident when the food appears. An early proponent of organic fare, Chef Michael Tuohy forgoes sauces, swirls and excessive garnish in order to focus on the food itself, which comes from local growers and national and international suppliers. The wood grilled whole Carolina mountain trout, for instance, arrived uncomplicated on a small bed of black-eyed pea, corn and tomato salad. Tucked in the middle of the fish were slices of garlic and lemon and basil, which imparted a natural, subtle flavor that complemented that of the wood grill. The crisp, fresh salad added to the clean taste. The hanger steak was equally pleasant with beautiful, tender fingerling potatoes and slightly oily and spicy pepperonata. The roasted peach tart, served with a fizzy peach bellini, was fantastic enough to consider making a permanent part of the menu. I was enamored with the warm, sweet peach gracing the center of a soft danish-like pastry. Back up front in the Café at Woodfire, the same philosophy on food applies, but on a scale suited to noshing while sipping a glass of wine. Opened in June 2005, the café reflects Tuohy’s love for Italian enotecas and the delis of his native San Francisco. Here, the menu features European-style deli favorites such as cheeses, cured meats, panini, marinated olives and pizzas. The sausages are made at the café, while many of the meats are cured there as well. The pizzas, made in the Neopolitan tradition with a crisp, yet chewy crust, are topped with quality ingredients, such as a $10-per-pound cheese. The intimate area also is ideal for an after-dinner indulgence of port, espresso or dessert from the in-house pastry chef. The night I visited the restaurant, both areas were filled with patrons but somehow were still quiet and relaxed. The servers contributed to the overall feel by being incredibly professional and friendly at the same time. Tuohy also frequently escaped his duties behind the grill to converse with guests. Leaving the restaurant, I stopped again for one last look at the cheese case, peeked up into the private dining area and glanced around the small café area. Everything about the space seemed to say “this guy is really excited about food.” The feeling proved to be contagious. Woodfire Grill is open Monday through Thursday from 5:30 until 10:00, Friday and Saturday from 5:30 until 11:00, and Sunday from 5:30 until 9:30. The Café is open Sunday through Thursday from 5:30 until 10:00 and Friday and Saturday until 11:00. The restaurants are located at 1782 Cheshire Bridge Road. For more information on special events, such as the wine and cheese club meetings, and half-price bottles of wine on Sundays, visit www.woodfiregrill.com or call (404) 347-9055. |
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| Above: Chef Michael Tuohy and various items from Woodfire Grill. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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