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Spicing Up Midtown
by Jennifer Grzeskowiak

One of the great things about Midtown is the melding of older Southern charm with the latest trends. Without being too in-your-face hip, the area has become an ideal place to enjoy a drink or well-prepared meal in a unique atmosphere. Nowhere is this truer than at Spice, tucked away on the corner of Juniper and 5th Street. Located in a renovated 1940s Victorian-style home, the restaurant fits in well with Midtown’s ambience, while also adding its own upscale flavor.

A departure from the original mid-century structure, the inside of the building now is very open and features iron I-beams, hardwood floors and a curved granite-topped bar back-dropped by a tall blue-lit wall. The walls are painted a sage green, along with other earthy colors, and are accented with bits of exposed brick and hip artwork (look for the black-and-white photographs of naughtily placed vegetables). Dim lighting finishes off the look, which is trendy and seductive, while also warm at the same time.

Like the old home it’s located in, the restaurant underwent an update of its own, adding renowned Chef Paul Albrecht, of Pano’s and Paul’s fame, more than two years ago. Keeping with Spice’s theme, Albrecht respects classic cuisine, but likes to update it with touches of modern flare. The food here is described as “innovative American,” which basically means regional interpretations of dishes, combined with contemporary cooking techniques and stimulating presentation. The pork chops, for instance, are stuffed with andouille, shrimp and granny smith apples and served with oven baked swiss chard, fried green tomatoes, cranberry relish and mustard au jus. Pork chops don’t come more Southern than that.

With so many tempting dishes to choose from, finally deciding on what to order was quite a task. A sucker for scallops, I started with the restaurant’s mint-basil-pesto marinated version, which only increased my love for the sea-faring species. Perfectly cooked and subtly seasoned, they were served with golden polenta cake and a fig balsamic reduction. The polenta added texture, while the reduction contributed flavor. I was pleasantly surprised by the chef’s tasting that arrived shortly after: tuna carpaccio with jicama-asian pear slaw, topped off by a large shrimp. The tuna was very fresh and perfectly complemented by the slaw which was crisp, light and mildly sweet. For a starter, I would also recommend the crisp potato puffs and Albrecht’s signature batter fried lobster tail.

The appetizers ended up serving as a good omen of what was to come. Selecting from the meat section of the menu (there is also one for seafood and vegetables), I opted for the spicy cinnamon seared duck breast. The duck was incredibly tender, with only hints of the spice and cinnamon, which allowed the flavor of the meat to stand out. Not having had pomegranates in several years, I was also excited about the reduction.

My companion for the night, meanwhile, thoroughly enjoyed the flat-ironed steak, which was one of the night’s specials. Slightly seasoned, the meat was juicy and cooked as specified. It was accompanied by potatoes au gratin with blue cheese, which was heavy and flavorful enough to stand up to the steak. Aside from the duck, some of the restaurant’s other more popular dishes include the pan-fried dover sole served with Jerusalem artichokes, jumbo asparagus and lemon-caper butter, and the herb dusted grouper served with roasted red pepper grits, fried oysters, broccolini and cumin-lime vinaigerette.

You can’t finish any good meal without dessert and coffee, and the chocolate caramel tart with hazelnut brittle and cappuccino ice cream proved to be a perfect end. If you can’t decide between Spice’s dessert selections, the sweet mélange, which consists of crème brulee, strawberry crepes, chocolate caramel tart and praline crunch ice cream is certainly an option.

Throughout the meal, the food was closely rivaled by the service. In fact, I can’t think of how the service could have been any better unless my food had been cut up for me. In addition to being attentive, our server was also very friendly and even talked with me while my dining companion was away from the table.

Overall, Spice combines quality food, service and atmosphere under one stylishly renovated roof. Midtown has a lot to offer in the way of dining, but Spice sets itself apart through its unique approach to traditional dishes and energetic décor. The restaurant is also confident enough in itself to forego the loud techno music and hipper-than-thou atmosphere. If you’re looking to spice up your dining routine, look no further.

Spice is open for dinner Monday through Thursday 5:00 to 11:00, Friday through Saturday 5:00 to 12:00 and Sunday 5:00 to 10:00. The restaurant also offers a Sunday brunch from 11:00 to 3:00, with live jazz from 12:00 to 2:00. For more information call (404) 875-4242 or visit www.spicerestaurant.com.
from top:
Roasted red and gold beet salad; Panko crusted Chilean Sea bass; Spicy cinnamon seared duck breast; Espresso crusted beef carpaccio; Warm apple bread pudding with caramel rum sauce; l-r, Sous Chef Eric Hunter, Chef de Cuisine Kevin Clark, and Executive Chef Paul Albrecht.