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SoHo In Atlanta

by Christine Woodhouse


If I ever set aside my in town snobbery for life in one of Atlanta’s outlying neighborhoods, I would definitely choose Vinings. Despite the winding, tree-lined roads and large houses built on civilized lots, there is still a trendy appeal for thirty-something singletons like myself. The Vinings Jubilee shopping center epitomizes the area’s stylish reputation with clusters of posh boutiques, housed in matching white wood exteriors. From its lofty promontory, SoHo attempts a different atmosphere. With its art lined walls and big billowy curtains, the restaurant aims for the more urban, creative vibe of New York City’s SoHo district. Giant murals of abstract art can’t quite disguise the well-bred suburbanite ambience of Vinings but the effect is stylish instead of pretentious. And the food further escalates that SoHo chic.

SoHo’s executive chef, Joe Ahn, is a rather young graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and a busy talent behind the scenes at SoHo. He grew up working in his parents’ Asian restaurant in Gettysburg, PA and still uses what he learned there to add unique flavor to SoHo’s otherwise traditional menu. You’ll notice the Asian influence peaking through in various dishes here and there.

We tasted it first-hand in the sushi appetizer special. The ahi tuna, smoked salmon and avocado tasted just as good as it sounded. The dollop of topeko sauce and flying fish roe added a tangy taste and creamy texture to the neatly sliced fresh fish rolls. A good heavy dip in the soy sauce gave the rice exterior some purpose and completed the sushi experience, though we both wished for chopsticks as we felt rather foolish wielding our giant forks over the plate of sushi. Chef Joe Ahn’s creative side shines in the presentation of his latest addition to the appetizer menu, the tuna carpaccio. A large but very thin, flat piece of fish is served over crisped rice paper with a generous portion of arugala hiding underneath and seaweed salad on the side. The tuna is brushed with soy and rice wine vinegar yet somehow evokes more of a sesame flavor. The bitter arugala and the soft, salty fish are an inventive and tasty match!

The beef carpaccio, however, was my favorite among the starters. The tangy white mustard sauce elevates the dish to new heights. Accompanied by shaved asiago cheese, fried capers and crispy shallots, the dish combines just the right flavors, all standing out equally.

The pasta special on the night we visited was penne with lump crab meat, sautéed jumbo shrimp and sugar snap peas in a sherry tomato cream sauce. I was pleased to see visible pieces of crab interspersed with the shrimp and even happier to taste that seafood flavor mixed with the surprisingly light cream sauce. Warm tomato chunks melted in my mouth while the crisp, fresh peas gave it some crunch. One of the standard seafood options on the menu is the sea bass. Glazed with tamarind and served with Thai vegetable ravioli and baby bok choy in a scallion buerre Blanc, the sea bass avoids traditional seasonings in lieu of some tasty Asian influence. The light butter lemon sauce leaves the big, fresh piece of fish to speak for itself and the sweet tangy tamarind adds just enough subtle flavor.

While there are many tempting options vying for your attention among the entrees, if you are a red meat eater you absolutely MUST try the elk. We ordered it medium rare and the meat was so tender I could almost cut it with the side of my fork. The raspberry and mustard glazed tenderloin is served with sweet potato gratin and asparagus with burgundy jus bathing it from below. The rich, lean elk tasted heavenly with the slight hint of raspberry, and the sweet potato gratin is absolutely brilliant. Thin, delicate slices of sweet potato are layered in a neat stack with just a dusting of cheese on top.

The duck breast is equally delicious and also highly recommended. The duck meat is seasoned with fennel and coriander and served with shinyo noodles, bok choy and a mandarin orange glaze. The citrus flavor keeps the dish light and the bok choy is so good you’ll wonder why you don’t eat it at every meal.

SoHo offers a distinguished-sounding artisan cheese plate as an aperitif but we could not resist the warmer, sweeter options. The chocolate bread pudding arrived in its deceptive brownie-like form with a perfect ball of vanilla bean ice cream on top and a two caramel garnish. One plunge of the spoon revealed a deep, dark melty middle inside the crusty chocolate exterior. Normally there would be a spoon fight for the last bite, but the warm waffle dessert had us at a stalemate. We were just as frantic to finish the Belgian breakfast treat served with toffee almond crunch ice cream and caramel, chocolate drizzle. I can’t think of a better dessert dilemma to have or a better place to have it.


Soho is located at 4300 Paces Ferry Road, Atlanta, GA 30339. Their phone number is (770) 801-0069 or visit them at www.sohoatlanta.com.
From top: Tuna carpaccio; Fresh mozzarella, sliced tomatoes, basil oil and balsamic vinegar reduction; Soho's lofty interior feel creates a New York Soho vibe.