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Murphy's
by Christine Woodhouse

With an executive chef from New York City at the helm, a pastry chef from Amsterdam reigning over desserts and a sophisticated wine selection worthy of its own retail space, it feels wrong to classify Murphy’s as a comfort food destination. But, ultimately, that’s really what Murphy’s is about.

Tom Murphy founded the restaurant in 1980 and built it up from the original basement, breakfast cafe into a popular Virginia Highlands eatery, consistently crowded with patrons at breakfast, lunch and dinner hours. The appeal of traditional Southern comfort food is enhanced by the sophisticated influences of executive chef, Nick Oltarsh. Under his delicate touch, the menu has slowly evolved to meet modern standards while retaining its Southern authenticity.

Because I have always thought of and dined at Murphy’s for brunch, I was eager to test their dinner menu. Knowing it’s the chef’s favorite item, I started with the fried green tomato appetizer. After tasting his version of such a classic I wondered if anything else on the menu would compare. Soft layers of breaded mozzarella cheese cut the tart taste of tomato and balanced the crispier texture. The gourmet presentation belies the filling flavor of this dish. The goat cheese salad is also a contender for best starter. Mandarin orange, beets and apples bring sweetness to the light salad, which is further complemented with toasted pine nuts and, of course, goat cheese deftly added at room temperature. The steamed mussels announce their presence with a divine aroma before even arriving at the table, but you won’t taste their spicy kick until after the first swallow. Seasoned with cilantro, lime, tequila and tomato, they are delightfully unlike any other mussels I have tried in Atlanta. The crab cakes were also very impressive as they actually consisted almost entirely of crabmeat. Reserving the breadcrumbs for the thin outer layer, the cake is lightly fried and served with pickled vegetable salad on the side and a delicious dipping sauce that is first creamy, then spicy.

Dinner entrees at Murphy’s proved just as satisfying as the appetizers. The Atlantic salmon with Napa cabbage, glazed turnips and zucchini served over a mustard horseradish sauce is an absolute standout. The cabbage and mustard add a bitter edge to the salmon, making it much more interesting than the average salmon filet. My normally reserved dining companion declared it a “plate licker” and I heartily agreed, glancing around to see if anyone would catch me attempting such a thing. We also enjoyed the sea scallops with ginger carrot puree, garlic butter and spinach. The salty, buttery sauce on the scallops exemplifies the chef’s appreciation for time-proven, classic combinations while the ginger carrot addition shows off his contemporary skill. The puree is both sweet and spicy, keeping you alert with its sharp ginger bite.

The menu’s offering of smoked pork chop with mashed sweet potatoes, apple compote and green beans is a bit misleading. Not a chop at all, the pork is sliced thin over the smoothest whipped sweet potatoes I’ve ever encountered. The apples and potato hold you in their sugary grasp while crispy al dente green beans give you something to crunch. The honey-cured pork contributes a slightly smoky flavor to the plate but not enough to sway the dish’s sweet disposition. You can almost see the chef bowing to Southern tradition.

Despite Murphy’s reputation for desserts, I didn’t find one that I loved. Cursing my walnut allergy I had to forgo the famous tollhouse pie and ignore the white and dark chocolate cookie batter taunting me from its Oreo-walnut crust. I comforted myself with visions of the chocolate peanut butter pie I’d heard so much about but, alas, it has been taken off the menu. Instead we tried the bonzo – three desserts in one with thick layers of brownie, cheesecake, dark chocolate mousse and whipped cream. I loved the texture of the dense brownie crust anchoring the tall dessert but, surprisingly, it just didn’t appease my penchant for a rich, sugary ending. I had a similar reaction to the warm Dutch apple pie, a recipe the pastry chef inherited from his grandmother back in Amsterdam. Mounds of shredded apples are dotted with golden and dark raisins in an airy cakey crust, resulting in a much lighter, flakier dessert than the syrupy, chunky apple version most Americans expect. Served with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce it almost hits the spot.

Far from unhappy, I left Murphy’s feeling more enlightened on the subtlety of Dutch desserts and delighted at the discovery of a talent beyond brunch. I cannot wait to go back for more of that salmon, and, barring the return of the peanut butter pie, I look forward to trying the chocolate truffle layer cake with ganache icing and raspberry sauce - yum!

Located on the corner of Virginia Avenue and North Highland, Murphy’s is at 997 Virginia Avenue NE, Atlanta, GA. Hours are: Monday - Thursday 11am - 10pm; Friday 11am - 12am with dinner served until 11pm and dessert available until 12am; Saturday 8am - 12am with brunch until 4pm, dinner until 11pm and dessert until 12am; Sunday 8am - 10pm with brunch until 4pm. 404-872-0904. http://murphysvh.com
From top: Fried green tomatoes, mozzarella, arugula and red wine salami; Atlantic salmon, napa cabbage, glazed turnips, zucchini, mustard-horseraddish sauce;
Executive Chef Nick Oltarsh; "The Bonzo" fudge brownie, cheesecake, dark chocolate mousse, whipped cream, chocolate sauce.
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