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Murphy’s:
Still Strong After More Than 20 Years
by Ridgeley Standard

For over 20 years, Murphy’s has been an Atlanta landmark – and rightly so. This convenient, warm neighborhood restaurant in Virginia Highland is a place where the service is good and the food even better.

Tom Murphy founded Murphy’s in 1980 as part of a feasibility study at Georgia State University on whether or not a restaurant could survive in the Virginia Highland neighborhood, which, at the time, was very different from the trendy marketplace it is today. Originally located in a 1920s brick bungalow, Murphy’s was first a deli / lunch establishment. Over time it evolved into a full-scale restaurant, serving lunch, dinner and an extensive weekend brunch. In 1992 Murphy’s moved to its current, larger location on Virginia Avenue, where a cozy dining room of exposed bricks and warm woods was created to maintain its original basement charm.

Within the past year, Murphy’s has undergone a renovation designed to greater emphasize the fine wine aspect of the restaurant. The front room now includes a larger bar and a more streamlined retail area. Resident “Wine Guy” Chris Reid heads the fine wine enterprise and offers a discriminating yet comprehensive collection. Wine lists are categorized according to body, and Reid is on hand to provide personal suggestions. Believing that your personal preference – not your meal choice – should determine the option between a red or white, Reid creatively interviews the diner to narrow down the choices. With the telling question, ” Are you in the mood for a warm hug, a nice conversation or a bit of an argument?,” Reid can suggest a complementary wine based on the given response. Feeling in the mood for a bit of an argument, I put my trust in Reid and am pleasantly surprised by an Ellen Landing Petit Verdot – a vaguely fruity, rich, full-bodied red that I daresay has become my new favorite.

Also new to Murphy’s is Craig Jeffress, general manager, who is a 15-year veteran of the restaurant business and began his career in Atlanta as a member of the Peasant Restaurants. Jeffress’ goal at Murphy’s is to provide the superior menu and service he has seen in his past ventures but at reasonable prices within a relaxed environment. “It is very important to me that all the little details that can make or break a dining experience not be overlooked,” Jeffress explains. “Not only have we created a menu that is both hearty and tasty, but it is served by a wait staff that is knowledgeable and attentive.”

Murphy’s describes its cuisine as “American standards with a twist.” The twist comes courtesy of new head chef Nick Oltarsh, formerly of Gramercy Tavern in Manhattan. Both the lunch and dinner menus are extensive enough to provide plenty of choices without being overwhelming. In addition, Murphy’s has long been known as a superior brunch location and has one of the more extensive brunch menus in the city. From bakery items, pancakes, French toast and signature egg dishes, there is something to please everyone no matter what size your appetite.

Both my friend and I begin with salads. She has the warm, crusted goat cheese salad on a bed of mixed greens with roasted beets and fresh beans served with walnut vinaigrette. A good-sized portion, it is light enough that she still has room for her meal. I choose the Caesar salad made of romaine and other mixed greens and served with onion straws and spicy croutons. The onion straws on top add a nice crunch, and the croutons, though I’m not usually a big fan, admittedly add a kick to an otherwise bland accompaniment. Big enough to be a main course, this salad can also be served with chicken or shrimp.

For my entrée, I choose the pan seared chicken breast with pearl pasta and lemon-garlic sauce – a light, tangy concoction complete with whole garlic cloves. My friend has the special, a chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese, spinach and sun-dried tomatoes in a tomato ragout served over navy beans. Incidentally, the special ends up replacing my chicken dish – a tough choice to make, as they are both delicious.

Dessert is a sweet tooth’s dream. Given the liberty to order for us,Jeffress chooses three desserts from an impressive list. If looking for a light dessert, I suggest the spiced pears poached in red wine and served with a Mediterranean yogurt. If chocolate is your weakness, as it is mine, the warm Tollhouse pie served with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce will be your undoing.

For sheer decadence, try the Bonzo, a fudge brownie, cheesecake and chocolate mousse layer cake topped with whipped cream. No matter what you select, rest assured that a superior dining experience awaits you.

Murphy’s is located at 997 Virginia Avenue, on the corner of Virginia and North Highland. They can be reached by phone at (404) 872-0904 or online at www.murphysvh.com.

from top:
Chef John Hamstra; ribs; warm, crusted goat cheese salad; spiced pears poached in red wine.