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Mitra: Serving Magic In Midtown
by Mariam Qureshi

I entered Mitra on one particularly chilly Thursday evening with ruddy cheeks, wind-blown hair and gloved fists shoved deeply into my coat pockets. I was annoyed by Atlanta's recent "cold" front. But, as soon as I walked up to Mitra, my agitation floated away with the sound of a cascading water feature that announces your location. Walking behind it, along the former front porch of an old Atlanta home, the waterfall drowns out the traffic on Juniper Street, and I'm led by soft lighting into the open arms of Mitra.

A smiling hostess led us into the intimate dining room. I was immediately struck by Mitra's warm and blithe atmosphere. The small bar to the right beckoned me with the crimson glow of a funky, star-shaped lantern, and a tempting array of liquors and wines. A large painting, depicting plump patrons, mirthfully singing and dancing overlooks the main cluster of tables. The scene reminded me of the tapas bars in Spain. I couldn't help but smile. Pale, but well-provided lighting, from an over-sized Mexican chandelier, illuminates the middle of the dining room. Its octopus-like metal arms end in bright bursts of glass stars as if a constellation. With inspiration and suggestions from his wife, Mitra (a former architect), owner Sia Moshk has created an ambiance that exudes the vivacious, yet easy-going appeal of Latin food and attitude.

Our appetites were first greeted by warmed, grain rolls and a roasted red pepper, shallot and garlic butter, a signature from Sia's, Moshk's first establishment in Duluth. Moshk has garnered a highly respected reputation in Atlanta. Having gained almost three decades of hospitality and business experience, including a long-lasting relationship with the Buckhead Life Restaurant Group, his love of global cuisine and his standout vision is quite tangible.

Andres, the General Manager, offered us the option to pick our own samplings or, as I had hoped, to trust the experienced opinion of Executive Chef Gerardo Ramos. Chef Ramos' top-picks were presented in a large white platter, the most appropriate background for the individually-sized portions. The servings resembled beautifully coordinated gift parcels, which were simply too gorgeous to disturb. Stunning or not, I was ready to satisfy my curiosity. First my eye was drawn to the pretty blush of smoked salmon sitting in a crisp shell. The salmon was dressed with a deliciously tart papaya salsa. These little salmon boats complimented the Argentinean Torrontes we were drinking perfectly. Next were the roasted lamb Cabreles taquitos with raisin relish and toasted almond slices. To me, lamb is always a good choice, and as blue cheese crumbs played a vital role in the fullness of flavour, the taquitos didn't disappoint. I highly recommend the calamari cone. The sizable helping of Rhode Island calamari was shared with a spirited Habanero aioli. The mention of such a pepper causes panic in some, but Chef Ramos welcomes the pepper's versatility and is careful to express its subtleties. When I asked him his favorite ingredients, the pepper joined fresh cilantro and garlic as loyal dish companions.

Mitra's dedication to tantalizing American cuisine infused with a vibrant Latin influence is particularly displayed in the chipolte BBQ pork tostadas sprinkled with queso fresco. The smoky flavour followed by the hearty crunch of the tostadas was a good marriage of texture and tang. My fondness of oysters is limited, but I did steal a bite of the flash fried oysters from my husband. I surprised myself, and irritated him, by actually enjoying them. Assisted by a garlic escabeche, the oysters' consistency was unexpectedly light and manageable. A tasting of the evening's soup special, a creamy asparagus and Habanero soup held all the flavour of a wintertime soup, without a trace of the spice the pepper is accused of.

I didn't believe there was room left in my stomach, but when Ramos served us the sea scallops atop of Manchego cheese grits, I knew I could squeeze in some more. The seared scallops didn't rely heavily upon the caramelized lime and jalapeno flavour, but could be overpowered by the robust grits if allowed. Chef Ramos then spoiled us with a fantastic tasting of the oregano Chimichurri grilled flat iron steak entrée decorated with grilled slivers of garlic. Paired with a Malbec, each bite was better than the last. Chef Ramos insists upon only using all natural, hormone-free meats and the cut's tenderness and flavour validates this.

Knowing that Chef Ramos wouldn't let dessert escape us, I pleaded for petite bites. Again, the presentation was delightfully uncomplicated. A sweetened pastry twist, kin to a doughnut, was served with a thick hot chocolate for dipping. Not being a stranger to its thick sweetness, I danced my fork over to the coconut bread pudding. Incredibly light, and with only a delicate coconut finish, this was the one dessert I wouldn't share. The key lime pie was indeed refreshingly tart, but compared to the other selections, slightly plain. Joined by a glass of 23-year aged rum, our last course provided the ideal finishing note to an exquisite experience.
Some patrons might ask Mitra's knowledgeable staff to elaborate upon some of the menu choices, especially if not familiar with Latin cuisine. Regardless of the item, Mitra encourages a relaxed exchange of food, drink and company, and above all, the smiles that follow a superb meal.

Mitra is located at 818 Juniper Street, Atlanta, GA 30308. For reservations, ring (404) 875-5515, or visit www.mitrarestaurant.com.

From the top, Apple Cream Puffs, Bedeque Oysters, Chocolate Mousse Heart Cake, Ice Cream Duo, Tamarin Baby Back Ribs, Thai Shrimp, Veal Chop, and Yuza Chillie Seared Tuna.