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| MidCity Cuisine: Food Lovers Delight by Suzanne Wright For me, it’s all about the chicken livers. But wait! Even if you don’t like organ meat, read on — MidCity Cuisine is much more than chicken livers. As a kid, my mom used to fry chicken as a special treat, and my sisters and I used to fight for the heart as aggressively as we did the wishbone, knowing mom would batter and fry up that little nugget as an appetizer. Whether that strikes you as eeww or aaah, that’s when my love affair with organ meats began. So when I see chicken livers, I always order them. Chef/owner Shaun Doty selects ultra fresh, organic ones, sautés them to a firm texture and pairs them with buttery ribbons of fettuccine — for a mere $10. Simple, rich, earthy and rustic, it’s everything I want in a pasta dish and perfect with a half carafe of Rincon Famoso, a light yet complex and spicy Argentine wine. Cheers to Sam Governale, who’s pulled together a reasonably priced, seasonal and boutique wine list that includes numerous bottles, half bottles, half carafes, carafes and glasses. Like Goldilocks, one will be just right. Doty, formerly of Mumbo Jumbo, has fashioned a very appealing, truly bistro menu at his groovy new digs in Midtown. Located in an office building on a curve near Pershing Point, you might sail by, were it not for the billowing white cloths that signal something’s afoot inside. Is it ever! The sleek yet warm space was designed by The Johnson Studio and features high ceilings and snappy, earthtone colors of terracotta, rust and dark gray in the upholstery and leather banquettes. Dark wood floors and tables play against the white ceiling fans, ceiling and walls, with a bank of windows fronting Peachtree Street adding even more light. The open kitchen is a beehive of energy to behold. Still, even when full to capacity, the place isn’t deafening, which is a good thing, since you’ll want to be able to compare tasting notes with your dining companions. There’s also al fresco dining. During my visit, kids are in tow at numerous tables while the trendsetters mingle in one of two bars. The kids – and parents — happily recommend the kids’ menu: selections of PB&J panini, spaghetti, chicken fingers and natural beef hot dogs. (Doty just became a first-time father). There are also a fair number of older patrons who have walked in from the nearby neighborhoods in pseudo-brasserie style as well as couples and same-sex friends, all enjoying the convivial, low-key vibe. Doty, who’s committed to creating an affordable neighborhood spot, serves breakfast (mainly for the office tenants), lunch, dinner and brunch, along with an all-you-can-eat gourmet pizza and salad buffet on Sunday nights. There are 16 hors d’oeuvres on the menu and hopscotching through them makes for a fulfilling meal. I am absolutely crazy about the bright-green fava beans and pecorino cheese and the bread salad with salty Serrano ham. The fried risotto balls with marinara are less inspired but fine, as is the sweet and sour eggplant caponata. But my unabashed favorite starter is the Sardinian flatbread, a thin and crispy round topped with peppery arugula and Moroccan oil. The perfect accompaniments? Silk pink slices of proscuitto and a carafe of sprightly Tocai Furilano. I am less fond of the Spanish Gazpacho and asparagus Flemish-style, which I find a bit too subtle. The nutmeg-spiked lasagna Bolognese for two is toothsome, but I balk at its $28 price tag, the most expensive dish on the menu. Better to go for the hanger steak frites — succulent medallions of beef bliss and perfectly prepared fries. The turbot is a generous fillet glistening with a delicious caper and brown butter sauce and served with spinach and fingerling potatoes. There are also specials and a few three-course set menus. At this point, I’m sighing like a French schoolgirl. Do save room for dessert. There are 13 choices (not including the cheese course) and several will appeal to the kid in you — or with you. The doughnut holes with three sauces (white chocolate, chocolate and caramel) are giant cream-filled, fried balls of joy that will have you smiling. Ditto the homemade Kit Kat bar, a silky nougat finale. My only complaint is the $3 valet parking charge. But after a meal of such high quality and a low price tag, I’m happy to part with a five spot. And I’m happy that this is my new neighborhood pick. Hooray for the gifted Mr. Doty. MidCity Cuisine is located at 1545 Peachtree Street. Their number is (404) 888-8700. |
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| from top: Arugula flatbread salad; Turbot; Owner/Chef Shaun Doty; Fresh strawberries and ice-cream. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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