The Restaurants The Reviews Culinary Commentary Chef Profiles Culinary Hardware Recipes Wines Awards Events Contact
Every month, we will feature stories that delve into various culinary delights served up by Atlanta's finest restaurants.

Click here to see our special promotions, events and features.

Also register to win a dinner for two at one of Atlanta's finest restaurants or win a free cooking class by one of Atlanta's top chefs!
CNN.COM
WEATHER.COM (Atlanta)
Haven
by Christine Woodhouse

It’s as if I’ve been invited to a dinner party at the best house on the block when I walk into Haven. The atmosphere is relaxed, in a designer jeans kind of way, but soothing nonetheless. The regulars exude an unconcerned sophistication, which I quickly adopt as we make our way to a comfy, brown leather booth in the back.

Privileged residents of Brookhaven have been enjoying meals at their quaint neighborhood namesake, Haven, for almost two years now. Michel Arnette opened the restaurant in the fall of 2003 after 10+ years of moving up through the ranks with Buckhead Life. Now, loyal followers familiar with his work at Pricci, Veni Vidi Vici and Buckhead Diner flock to Haven for the cultivated cuisine and the warm, welcoming atmosphere. Nestled in a decidedly residential area, not far from Peachtree Road, the restaurant hasn’t had a slow night since it opened.

On a Sunday evening we find Haven steadily filling with a well-dressed crowd of neighborhood socialites. The intimate dining room is a balance of activity with an ample bar along one wall and an open kitchen on the opposite. Next to the kitchen, a wine library complete with rolling ladder extends from floor to ceiling, displaying the bottles in a criss-cross pattern of dark wood. The rich tones of the deep stain are echoed on the exposed beams and wood trim throughout the space, stylishly contrasting the creamy white walls. A few well-placed antiques, like a wide-planked farmhouse table and an antique secretary, complete the cozy chic atmosphere.

Before we can decide what to order, the chef sends out a sample of the night’s special. Miniature portions of peekytoe crab stuffed in zucchini blossoms appear on a large white plate with artichokes, baby arugala and tomato chili vinaigrette. The zesty greens are a flush of crisp contrast against the sweet, delicate flavor of the Atlantic rock crab. The resulting bouquet of tastes and textures makes an exceptional first impression!

I could eat an entire plate of the crab, but there is the matter of a yellowfin tuna taco appetizer approaching. The generous portion of diced raw tuna is neatly packed in a crispy fried shell, surrounded by jicama slaw with a touch of citrus sweet and sour. I scoop out forkfuls of tuna to eat with the fresh, crunchy jicama for a nice, light snack. (Calorie conservation is required in preparation for the truffled potato hay.) It turns out, the impossibly thin strips of fried potato ‘hay’ require a certain finesse to eat. After all, the atmosphere at Haven is not exactly conducive to the sort of hand-over-fist shoveling technique reserved for establishments like the Varsity. Somehow, we manage to act civilized in spite of the addictive, salty pecorino Romano seasoning.

I am silently reminding myself to save room for the main course when the next distraction arrives. While only an appetizer, the dayboat scallops are so well prepared they rival full entrees at other establishments. The chef pan roasts the scallops to caramelized perfection and plates them alongside buttery brussel sprouts with a drizzle of cider butter to top it all off. The cider butter is a sweet, brown syrup that not only decorates the plate but also offsets the bitter flavor of those tasty little green cabbages.

Because Haven is touted as something of an upscale comfort food venue, I choose the osso bucco as my personal test of the kitchen’s competence. The red wine braised short ribs they produce are a solid winner. The tender meat falls apart in shredded mounds, releasing savory juices into the soft chunks of smashed red bliss potato underneath. While as comforting as homemade pot roast, this dish excites the senses with the unexpected gourmet touch of blue cheese in the potatoes. Meanwhile, the grouper entree makes quite a show at our table as well. Though it’s a lighter dinner option, prepared with a sauce of chunky plum tomatoes and garlic, it comes together as a hearty and satisfying rendition of rustic, Mediterranean fare. One bite is not enough as I savor the seared fish with warm, juicy tomatoes and consider my critique.

While secretly pining for bread pudding, I acquiesce to the Cuban coffee semifreddo for dessert instead. I am completely unprepared for the blissful experience of mocha mousse topped with whipped cream and grated white chocolate. If you too are foolish enough to share, this dessert will have you dueling over the last spoonful. Like a party you can’t bear to leave, it’s impossible to forsake even one drop of this creamy chocolate concoction. Lucky for us, gatherings at Haven happen almost every night.

Haven is closed on Mondays and however is open Sunday as well as Tuesday’s through Thursdays from 5 pm to 10 pm and Friday and Saturdays from 5 pm to 11 pm. Haven is located at 1441 Dresden Drive, Suite 160, Atlanta, GA 30319. For reservations call (404) 969-0700 or go to www.havenrestaurant.com.
From top: Jumbo Prawn Scampi Linguini; Pan Roasted Dayboat Scallops; Pan-Seared Black Grouper; Yellowfin Tuna Taco; Executive Chef Jeff Gomez (left) and owner Michel Arnette (right); Milk Chocolate Tart.