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Eclipse di Sol
by Jennifer Grzeskowiak


Don’t let the name Eclipse di Sol mislead you. This follow-up to Eclipse di Luna, which has set the bar for tapas restaurants in Atlanta, exudes a similar eclectic flare even after the sun has set. Located in the Poncey Highland's part of town, di Sol serves breakfast, lunch and dinner in a neighborhood setting that is colorful and lively, yet perfect for kicking back.

The restaurant’s entrance, a large covered patio that lines a Highland Avenue sidewalk, immediately creates the feeling of a Euro-style café. Small red suns hanging from the patio’s covering playfully welcoming diners. Adding to the European sensibility, a menu sits at the entrance off the sidewalk, beckoning and successfully drawing in the area’s numerous pedestrians. Diners and passersby exchange waves and conversation, making the nascent establishment seem like it’s been in the area for years.

The openness of the entire restaurant reinforces the neighborhood feel. The wall connecting the patio and interior is made up of large wooden window frames sans the actual glass, allowing the activity inside and out to meld together. The indoor dining area is an open, undivided mission-style space with dark wood floors and a long, inviting bar. Bursts of color come from hanging light fixtures and paintings done in warm hues on the walls.

While the atmosphere is similar to that at Eclipse di Luna, the tapa-less menu is a departure. The restaurant kicks off the day with treats such as fresh beignets with orange-ginger marmalade and lavender honey, and omelets with cured salmon, chervil, lemon and cream cheese. It’s certainly worth noting that the pastries, breads and other delectables are prepared by an in-house pastry chef. For lunch and beyond, there’s an array of appetizers, salads, sandwiches and entrees.

From the appetizer list, the wild mushroom turnovers with roasted garlic and a couple of cheeses are incredibly satisfying. The tender texture and earthy taste of the mushrooms contrast nicely with the warm, gooey cheese and thick, yet buttery and flaky pastry crust. For something small, yet satisfying, the assorted breads, including focaccia and a dense and slightly sweet brioche, are worth trying.

On the entrée list, the hanger steak is so well prepared it can be eaten without assistance from a steak knife. The flavorful and slightly crisp outside seals in the juices and retains the meat’s buttery texture. The accompanying pomme frittes are light, crispy and perfect by themselves or with the creamy malt vinegar aioli. Slow roasted pork shoulder is also one of the restaurant’s recommended items. The preparation allows the tenderness and natural salty taste of the pork to prevail, which is carried through in the braised baby collards that come with the dish. Roasted sweet potatoes add a sweet element that doesn’t overpower the other flavors, but allows them to mingle in the mouth.

The desserts take a note from the décor in terms of their distinctiveness. Take, for instance, the raspberry-hibiscus ice cream sandwich, a sorbet-like filling meshed between two thin pieces of buttermilk chocolate cake. Other unique offerings include a strawberry and rhubarb tart with white chocolate streusel and pineapple upside down cake with toasted coconut sauce.

Like other eateries in the area, Eclipse di Sol’s ambience is apt for patrons simply wanting a spot to sit and enjoy a drink. Aside from classics such as margaritas and martinis, the bar serves up more inventive concoctions including strawberry rhubarb bellinis, Patti’s bourbon with blackberry and lemon balm, and mimosas with ginger and orange blossom. If a meal, however, is on the agenda, there’s enough very reasonably priced wines to complement any dish.

All of the restaurant’s treats are brought out by a pleasant wait-staff that goes out of its way to make sure everyone is enjoying themselves. Owner James Erlich also makes the rounds to ensure that customers are being well taken care of.

The complete Eclipse di Sol experience is punctuated by salsa and merengue-style music that makes it difficult not to dance in your seat. The music, however, is just one of the endless number of details that come together in a seemingly effortless manner. The restaurant sets itself apart with an overall ambience that feels like a great antique market where the individual character of each piece contributes to the refreshingly offbeat whole.

Where Eclipse di Luna is somewhat separated from the area in which it resides, the newest addition to the Eclipse family already fits in with its quirky neighbors.

Eclipse di Sol is located at 640 N. Highland Ave., just south of Ponce de Leon. Hours of operation are from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., Monday through Sunday. For more information, call (404) 724-0711.
Pictured above:
Salmon; Crab Cakes; Crispy Shrimp; Tuna Nicoise; Key Lime Pie; Chocolate Explosion.