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| Ambra by Suzanne Wright Getting to Ambra is an exercise in keeping the faith. You may pride yourself on easily navigating to the original Tacqueria del Sol or Nuevo Laredo. This place has a really remote Westside location amidst the industrial businesses off Ellsworth Industrial Road, beyond Howell Mill Road. When you finally spot the sign, you still have to make a fishhook to the back of the building before you can park. But have heart: the inviting atmosphere makes it worth the trouble. Those with eagle eyes will spot the firewood piled under the stairs at the Lumberyard Lofts where Ambra is housed. That wood stokes the grill that turns out some nice smoky vegetables and salmon. When you open the door, it’s the glorious cobalt blue mosaic that frames the open kitchen that catches your eye first in the single boxy room. That, and the warm, mustard-colored walls. Whether you want to eat at the dark wooden tables capped with white linen, at the brightly upholstered banquettes or the bar, it’s a comfortable space. There’s even a changing art exhibit along one wall. But be warned, the place becomes quite loud even when just half full. Owner Kelly Goggin, chef John McGarry (formerly of Prime) and servers are all earnest and genuinely interested in feeding you well, which is refreshing, especially since some other rehabbed loft restaurants aren’t so inviting. Everyone is so likeable; it’s a bit disheartening to have to criticize. Fact is, the relatively new eatery is still tinkering, trying to find its groove. Ambra does a brisk lunch business but is struggling to build dinner business. The menu we sampled will be changing shortly, based on feedback from customers. Goggin says she is moving toward a tapas/grazing type menu. Smart move. The menu is Southwestern with Mediterranean accents. I love Southwestern food when I eat it in Arizona or New Mexico, but on its journey east it seems to lose focus. Still, the Navajo fry bread with hummus and chili cheese sauce and a pile of pickled vegetables is a great starter. The fresh spinach salad dressed with orange-tamarind vinaigrette and tossed with herbed goat cheese and sweet pecans was a bit too oily for my taste. The aforementioned woodfire-grilled vegetables are crisp and nicely smoky but not memorable. Which is part of the problem: Although many of the combinations are unusual, many dishes don’t make an impact. The pork tenderloin does. Grilled and served with charros bean stew and roasted corn chow-chow, the pork is flavorful and tender, the sides robust without being heavy. It’s fairly priced at $13. Ditto the pizza, especially the proscuitto, fig compote and bleu cheese pizza. Sure, it’s salty, but the crust is terrific and the rich tang of flavors feels indulgent. I was disappointed in the lobster burrito, an expensive ($18) failure. The seafood was chewy and lacked flavor and the tortilla a sloppy mess. Much better was the tuna tostada with black bean mashed potatoes and cactus slaw (cactus is a revelation — it also shows up sautéed, and it’s great). Still, at $18, it isn’t an unqualified success. The wine list is also being retooled but expect a good mix of boutique wines and more affordable, well-known selections. Desserts rebound (Goggin is a pastry chef and has a booming catering business). They’re not fancy, mind you, but such stick-to-your-ribs winners as a warm Belgian chocolate cake that becomes quickly liquid with its dollop of vanilla ice cream and a mixed fruit crisp reminded me of my grandmother’s best dessert. I will look forward to visiting again to see how the menu has evolved. You can feel the heart of the place and that gives me faith in Ambra. It may just take a little time to make me a true believer. reviewed summer of 2003 |
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