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Wisteria
by Michelle Thomason

Wisteria is quickly becoming a popular and beloved eatery. From the atmosphere to the experienced and professional staff to the high quality menu, Wisteria is destined to become one of Atlanta’s hottest spots.

Wisteria Restaurant is located in Babbette’s old location at 471 North Highland Avenue. The owners, Stephen Segrest, Craig Shook and Jason Hill converted the space into their own version of the ideal comfortable and welcoming restaurant. The owners did almost all of the work themselves with help from Rachel Seal, an interior designer with Seiber Design.

Exposed brickwork, large, storefront windows and dim lighting, help to create a warm atmosphere. Deborah Evans, Wisteria’s PR representative, calls the restaurant, “a casual dining atmosphere offering old-fashioned Southern charm and hospitality with a contemporary American menu.” The feel of the restaurant is sincere and casual. The Southern charm is evident in the attention to service that the staff and owners stress. Locals and newcomers alike, are made to feel that they are truly appreciated.

Chef Jason Hill combines his knowledge of local flavors with his extensive experience to create a menu that is both familiar and unique. Hill got his start with Buckhead Life Restaurant’s Pano’s and Paul’s. He then went on to study and perfect his skills at the Johnson & Wales School of Culinary Design in Charleston, SC. From there, he returned to Atlanta, working in several Highlands area restaurants including Indigo Coastal Grill, Harvest and Babbette’s Cafe. Combine his experience in the kitchen with his expertise in one of Atlanta’s favorite intown neighborhoods, and you have an amazing foundation upon which to build an incredible restaurant.

Shook and Segrest also boast years of experience in the Virginia Highlands area. Shook worked as a server, bartender and manager at Harvest and went on to become the General Manager of Cosi in Decatur. Segrest spent time at the Highland Tap and was a favorite at Dish where he worked as a server. Shook and Segrest have brought their brand of superior service to the front of the house at Wisteria while Hill and his excellent kitchen staff, including Walker Brown (Executive Sous Chef) and Michael Hosp (Sous Chef) bring it all together with their fresh, well portioned dishes. Shook sums it up nicely, “we offer fine dining with a high level of quality food, service and atmosphere and the warmth and charm of a neighborhood eatery.”

From appetizers to main courses to desserts, Wisteria Restaurant is consistent and flavorful. The Calamari with wasabi creme fraiche and homemade plum sauce is a favorite appetizer as well as the Mussels in a light tomato broth. The Arugula and Grilled Apple Salad with honey roasted pecan dressing is a perfect example of Southern tradition matched with new flavors. The Winter Squash Soup with ginger creme fraiche and a Vidalia onion, apple, walnut relish is a warming Fall dish that hints of the seasonal flavors to come. The entrees are the crowning achievement of Chef Hill’s kitchen. The Crab Cakes made with Charleston-style lump meat with roasted corn and sweet pepper succotash rival my favorite version of this dish at a small restaurant in Florida, and the Molasses-Rubbed Pork Tenderloin with sweet potato soufflé is appealing to the trendy diner as well as the steadfast Southern cooking fan. The Ahi Tuna, grilled and served over rutabaga puree with bok choy and vegetables in a sesame-soy vinaigrette bursts with fresh flavor. For vegetarians, there is the Five-Cheese Tortellini and the Vegetable Platter (a delicious assortment of seasonal fresh vegetables that are grilled, stewed, sautéed and roasted). The perfect ending to a meal at Wisteria is the Creme Brulee Duo or the Seasonal Fruit Tart. Shook has meticulously selected an impressive wine list of around 100 bottles to go with Hill’s menu. The list features a selection from around the world with a focus on North American wines. Many are offered by the glass and priced very reasonably. I’ve seen some of the wines on this list for twice the price at other restaurants in town. Shook eventually plans to host wine tastings and wine dinners at the restaurant.

What I enjoyed most about Wisteria is its neighborhood feel. This is a restaurant that is not just your special occasion spot. This is the type of place that becomes your favorite place to eat. “We had regulars within the first two weeks that we were open,” said one of the servers. The influx of people from the suburbs as well as other intown neighborhoods is sure to come, but the able staff at Wisteria Restaurant will certainly keep the charm and comfort of this local eatery intact and thriving.

Wisteria Restaurant is open Sunday-Thursday from 5:30-10:00 and Friday and Saturday from 5:30-11:00. Reservations are accepted Sunday-Thursday and Friday and Saturday for parties of 5 or more. Entree price range: 13.95-20.95, Dress: Casual, Atmosphere: Casual Fine Dining. Wisteria is located at 471 North Highland Avenue and can be reached at 404-525-3363.
from top: Vegetable platter; crab cakes; Owners Jason Hill, Craig Shook and Stephen Segrest; creme brulee duo.