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| ONE Midtown Kitchen profile by Christine Woodhouse (March 2004) In order to properly experience ONE Midtown Kitchen I recommend starting off at the bar, where the wine list is extensive yet reasonable and the martini choices are creatively diverse. Our server aptly suggested I try the signature ONE martini which combines Ketel One vodka, a rose champagne and frozen grapes. Slightly tart and subtle, the grape influence adds interest while the drink retains the civilized nature of a martini. If you’re a martini purest in the mood for something slightly different, this is for you. While I played the part of sophisticated connoisseur, my friend got more creative with the Thin Mint martini. After generously offering me a sip, she had a hard time removing it from my vice grip. It’s a liquid version of the cookie with a light, minty taste that hits your chocolate spot without any guilt! If you can tear yourself away from the bar area with its two-story wall consisting entirely of artfully stacked wine bottles and resist sinking into the chaise lounge outside the bathrooms to watch the flat screen tv, a delicious meal awaits at ONE. However, there is a lot to take in before you even consider the menu. And, to this discerning foody, all of the obvious attention paid to the atmosphere at ONE was cause for a little suspicion. The place is certainly mesmerizing with an 80-foot curved counter surrounding the open kitchen, suspended light bulbs above, and liberal use of candles throughout. The exposed brick, high ceilings and oversized window grids are matched with just a few understated, artistic flower arrangements. The attractive, self-aware clientele at ONE are an accessory unto themselves. Even celebrities know enough to be seen here. So, can such a place have any substance or is it more about the décor than a quality meal? I’m happy to report you can get both here -- equal parts beautiful people and good food. Attention to detail at ONE encompasses every facet of the restaurant, from atmosphere to menu options. Even the house water is purified and filtered on site, then served from simple glass bottles. New menus are printed daily to reflect the chef’s changes (dictated by ingredient availability and freshness). Limiting your appetizers from the tempting array of choices is difficult, so we didn’t. Our highlights were the lamb ribs, shrimp tempura and calamari fries. The ribs were sweet and luscious and relatively lean. The shrimp was perfectly matched with a sweetly spiced chili sauce and the romesco sauce took the crispy battered giant squid to a new level. The most popular small plate is the goat cheese stuffed sourdough bread with wild mushroom saute and truffle. I understand the appeal of this rich concoction but in anticipation of eating a full meal I couldn’t indulge in more than a bite or two. After hearing the chef himself describe the skate wing special, there was no other option for me. Using the skate broth and a touch of butter to create a wine reduction, he deftly subdued the vivid skate flavor, making my mouth hum with pleasure. Thick strips of caramelized onions surrounded the skate and capers dotted the sauce, but make no mistake, it was all about that savory piece of fish. Sticking with the seafood theme, my dining companion ordered the tuna. The yellowfin comes charred rare, unless otherwise specified, along with spinach and a sticky rice cake with sherry soy. The soy sauce brought an expected saltiness to the dish while the spinach rounded out the flavors on the plate. A daikon radish on top completed the presentation. The desserts are also hard to resist at ONE. Deciding between mixed berry napoleon, mini moon pies, cheesecake stuffed crepes and ice cream tartufo was impossible. Without revealing exactly how much I ate, I can testify that there are no wrong choices on the dessert menu at ONE. For chocolate lovers, I recommend the tartufo, which is crem de cocoa ice cream crusted in dark chocolate and macadamia nuts with a truffle treasure inside. The crunchy outer shell was enough to impress me but then my spoon hit a solid chocolate center and I was in orbit. Whoever said ‘chocolate is love’ has the key to my heart. Given my affinity for chocolate, I was astounded by how much I also loved the cheesecake crepes. The crepe envelopes a thin piece of cheesecake with sliced strawberries and balsamic honey. The warm crepe, cool cheesecake combination is pleasure on a plate. My conclusion about ONE? Once seated, this place is very much about the food. Even the managing partner, who can be found wandering from table to table checking on guests, will dissect a dish on command and tell you exactly what’s in it. And instead of being distracted by the décor on the way out, I noticed the chef lovingly attending to each dish, applying garnish and perfecting the arrangement, before sending it through the bustling dining room to its final destination. I saw a pancetta pizza awaiting his approval and knew exactly what to order next time. I’ll be back soon! ONE Midtown Kitchen is located in midtown Atlanta at 559 Dutch Valley Road. Open 7 nights a week, Monday-Thursday 5:30pm to midnight, Friday and Saturday 5:30pm to 1am and Sunday, 5:30pm to 10pm. 404-892-4111 www.onemidtownkitchen.com |
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| From top: Tuna tartare; Bass; Chef Joe Masi; Berry Napoleon. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| opening review, 2002 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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