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Fishmonger's
by Paul Frysh

Walking into Fishmonger Seafood Grill in Sandy Springs feels like walking into a good friend’s living room. It might have something to do with the warm, welcoming surroundings, or it might be the gracious manner of your host, Nick, who owns the restaurant and invariably greets you at the door. During the evening, he will reappear at your table in order to check that the meal is going off without a hitch. Nick’s watchfulness is reflected in the unaffected and efficient attitude of his staff and in the quality of his food. Clearly, this is not a man who is likely to take any shortcuts in the kitchen.

Once seated, one of a seemingly endless supply of waitresses will arrive with a fresh hot French baguette. It is futile to resist. Just the smell of the stuff will render you powerless. So there’s no use feeling guilty -- eat it with gusto, preferably with one of the delicious brothy starters that are offered. The Fishmonger Stew done Portuguese style with saffron and potatoes, or the mussels, simply prepared with white wine, garlic and lemon will do nicely. The seared jumbo sea scallops are served in an apple cider jelly that also begs for bread. All three are reasonably priced from $7-$10 and are more than enough for a light supper, especially with the bread. But I make it a rule never to have a light supper, so let’s move on to the main course.

First, let’s get the non-fish-eaters out of the way. Unlike a lot of fish restaurants where the non-fish entrées seem like boring afterthoughts, there are no second-class entrées here. Filet mignon from Argentina, lamb chops from New Zealand and a classically prepared Chicken Picatta are clear evidence that as much care is being taken with the ingredients and preparation of these entrées as with the fish entrées. And that’s saying a lot.

Now we get to the star attraction. The fish specials change periodically, according to which catch is freshest. Seared tuna, unpleasant unless exceptionally fresh, is always above reproach when Nick decides to put it on special. It is served in a ginger soy sauce, which manages to be savory without ruining the delicacy of the tuna’s inherent texture and flavor. And look out for my personal favorite, the whole roasted red snapper. It makes a beautiful presentation, simply and elegantly prepared with olive oil and salt under a searing hot broiler.

Currently also on special are a deliciously tart salmon in lemon butter and a sautéed rainbow trout, both of which I can vouch for unreservedly. I’m not a big fan of fish and chips but if you are, Nick is your man. Being from the former English colony of Zimbabwe, he is very serious about his fish and chips. My mother, who also has strong English roots and considers herself a veritable fish and chips connoisseur, assures me that Nick’s is the real thing. The Spicy Sautéed Jumbo Prawns are unusual and delicious and Crawfish Linguine brings a hearty Creole note to the menu. A classic fish in parchment is also always on the menu and highly recommended.

Whether you like your seafood simple or sauced up, Fishmonger accommodates with an unwavering freshness. Salad is a great indicator of how attentive the kitchen is to ingredients and the salads at Fishmonger are always supremely fresh (and intelligently dressed) -- the perfect prelude to the main event. There is plenty of good wine at Fishmonger and they have a nifty custom of listing on the menu reasonable wines by the glass to go with their specials. Fish entrées hover around $20, which is perfectly reasonable for fish of this quality in Atlanta.

Dessert is simple and delicious if you have room. My personal favorite is the sorbet but if you’re a sugar fiend, try the brownie with ice cream and hot chocolate sauce. Don’t miss the outstanding Crème Brule when available.

Sandy Springs has never been a hot spot for great restaurants, so Fishmonger is a welcome addition to the area. There is a refreshing lack of pomp and ceremony about the place that separates it from similar Buckhead area restaurants. It is the kind of place where the owner remembers all the regulars and their drinks by name -- the kind of place you tell people about only if you really like them. It is a real discovery. Go soon, while you can still get a table.

Fishmonger Seafood Grill is located at 4969 Roswell Road, Pier 160 Atlanta. For reservations, call (404)459-9003.

from top: Napoleon seared tuna; owner Nik Panagopolous; signature cheesecake.