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Masculinity Meets Elegance at the Capital Grille
by Sarah Wood

“Oh, so you were the ones who ordered salmon and swordfish,” smirked executive chef Paul Agnelli, pleased to have identified the culprits, the idiots who dared enter The Capital Grille and not order steak. “You know we talk about your type back in the kitchen,” he continued, smiling.

“Well, there’s more to a restaurant than its food,” I replied, pounding my fists on the table gently. “And besides, if steak is your specialty, why wouldn’t I order something else, something less popular, to challenge you a bit?” It was a weak defense. Quite surprisingly, however, my explanation met no retort, as the confident chef gave me the honor of the last word. But why?

My guess is that he knew he was right, so right he need not bother saying more. And he did have a point – I give him that. What are the chances a could-be vegetarian would seek to review a restaurant declaring itself “Master of the Steak?” The irony is far from subtle.

So, the question, then, is for me. Why did I do it? Why did I, an occasional meat-eater, select this restaurant over the many Atlanta choices? Curiosity, I suppose. Having known Chef Agnelli when he was with Van Gogh’s in Roswell, I wanted to say hello to my old friend, to see how he has been, and as it turned out, to see what he can do with not meat, but fish!

Led by a perky hostess and escorted by my could-be vegetarian roommate, I entered The Capital Grille and was seated at an elegant “four-top” by the window, providing rare aerial footage of The Fish Market’s aquatic landscape and an exceptional view of downtown Atlanta. Rumor had it the restaurant’s decor was a bit masculine; and thus, I was not surprised by the dark green, mahogany-trimmed walls or heavily framed paintings of fox hunts and various other wilderness adventures. My roommate was quick to notice the numerous animal heads hanging near the ceiling, and added the dining room reminded her of a “traditional library or study.”

The dinner menu and extensive wine list were combined into an oversized folder of choices that proved to be a bit cumbersome with more than one guest at the table. We were also presented with a list of before-dinner cocktails and wines by the glass, from which we each made a selection. Since it is traditionally men who support the regular consumption of red meat, The Capital Grille accentuates an aura of masculinity through its menu. Roasted Chicken is the only poultry item amidst an array of meat entrees, including The Grille’s Signature Veal Chop with Roquefort Butter Sauce and the scrupulously described Dry Aged Steak au Poivre with Courvoisier Cognac Cream Sauce (All meat is dry aged on-premises and hand-cut daily. See Web site for further details).

As mentioned above, my table ordered from the seafood section of the menu – an action that, as we later learned, would entertain the kitchen staff for a moment or two. My roommate enjoyed her Fresh Grilled Swordfish Jardinière, which my nibble confirmed to be juicy and tender with a pleasant buttery richness. My Fresh Grilled Salmon with Fricassee of White Bean proved to be an excellent choice, as I found the fish perfectly cooked and well paired with a zig-zag of tangy, mustard-dill sauce decorating the plate beneath it. At the suggestion of our server, my dining companion and I shared (but could not finish) a side of Roasted Seasonal Mushrooms that were rich in garlic, but unevenly cooked. Our meal was preceded by an appetizer of Lobster and Crab Cakes, bursting with large pieces of lobster and bearing little taste of breadcrumbs (The “filler” chefs are proud to omit), and a Tomato and Sweet Onion Salad that, even when halved, remained too much to finish. I sing praises to the basket of bread that greeted us upon seating. Marked by a gigantic, half moon of cracker extending above the basket like the mighty sail of a New England schooner, the assortment complemented every course of our meal, and therein, earned a seat of its own.

Chef Agnelli joined our table in the midst of a debate over which dessert to choose. He quickly solved our problem, though, by asking our server to have the kitchen prepare a platter containing not a single choice, but three.

We savored our Flourless Chocolate Espresso Cake, Cheesecake with Strawberries, and Key Lime Pie (Each of which was garnished with its own dollop of whipped cream) in near silence. And this allowed Chef Agnelli, a graduate of Johnson & Wales University, to spend the final minutes of his ten-hour day glorifying The Capital Grille management and staff, as well as Rare Hospitality Management’s commitment to outstanding service. He also explained that, although the original idea was to place Capital Grille restaurants in capital cities only, the plan was eventually abandoned – explaining why there are locations in such lesser-known cities as Chestnut Hill, Massachusetts, and Tysons Corner, Virginia.

I give Chef Agnelli a gold star for his candor, and likewise, for his generous gift of more than 2,000 calories! And I will conclude by encouraging those (meat-eaters) interested, to give Capital Grille a try, to absorb the view, indulge in the service of a carefully trained staff, sample a new wine, and even to order fish – if you’re so inclined!

The Capital Grille is located at the top of The Capital Building at 255 East Paces Ferry Road. They are open for lunch and dinner. Reservations are accepted and encouraged. They are available on-line at www.thecapitalgrille.com and can be reached by phone at (404) 262-1162.

from top:
Calamari; Steak; Flourless chocolate espresso cake; Chef Paul Agnelli.