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Bacchanalia
by Victoria Forrest

What does one do with a former meat packing plant? Turn it into one of the finest dining establishments in Atlanta -- which just happens to be the very upbeat, upscale Bacchanalia. It has remained numero uno on Atlanta’s most popular eateries list since it opened its doors a few years ago.

The transformation of the new location with the incorporation of the old to the new look of chic Asian-American decor, however, is amazing. It is simple, streamlined and elegant. Ceiling to floor panels of plaid fabric separate the entrance from the eating area, giving it a feeling of airiness and at the same time adding a bit of privacy. It is simply put... stunning.

The American cuisine menu is diverse and changes everyday. The front of our menu read “Bacchanalia Early Autumn 2000 Lunch.” The menu lists at least five selections from the obvious categories ranging from Appetizers, Entrees and Deserts. So don’t expect an overwhelmingly vast selection, but know up front that whatever you order will be sensational!

You would have thought that we were sitting in a cafe in Paris, sipping wine and enjoying the French Foie Gras Terrine with Sauterne Gelee. A grand blending of tastes presented with all of the elegance one would expect from a dinner at The White House. Bacchanalia’s signature Blue Crab Fritter with Avocado, Citrus & Thai Pepper is a heavenly combination of the sweet tender crab with a splash of the unexpected zest from the Citrus and Thai Pepper. Not to be missed is the Seared Veal Sweetbreads with slivered slices of Artichoke. If you have never introduced yourself to Sweetbreads, this would be the right time. The pairing is fabulous -- add to that a glass of Sauterne and sit back and let the flavors dance. This is a real treat!

Now that you have realized that the ambiance is unbeatable, it is time for the entree. The North Carolina Rainbow Trout with Pole Beans and Lemon Butter Sauce is a new interpretation on a southern favorite. The mixture of the clean fresh taste of the Trout on a bed of Pole Beans is an uncomplicated winner. Something rarely seen in the south but a favorite northern choice is the Wood Grilled California Squab with Port Wine Glazed Figs. An interesting variation of what is now becoming a regional favorite.

All offerings are filled with imagination and creativity. Bacchanalia wouldn’t have the reputation for excellence that it does if this wasn’t the case. I would dare to say that anything you order will be outstanding. Each presentation is a treasure, including dessert.

The Caramel Pot De Creme with Lace Cookie, is as intriguing as it is delicious. Served in a white porcelain pot, the surprise lays in the bottom. Just a hint of sweetness to tantalize your taste buds, this will remain an uncompromising delicacy and is visually sensational. Equally heavenly is the Raspberry Brown Butter Tart with Lavender Ice Cream. So soothing, it boarders on a comfort food with an added surprise of the Lavender Ice Cream; What a treat! Throw caution to the wind and just sit back and enjoy the marriage of textures from the coarsely refined Raspberry Brown Butter Tart to the superior mellow flavor of the Lavender Ice Cream. Experience the perfect union with both delight and surprise.

The food is divine, the service superior and Bacchanalia’s American wine list is one of the most comprehensive we’ve seen. Feel free to ask about pairings, the staff is highly knowledgeable and will be happy to make exceptional recommendations.

Since Bacchanalia is now serving lunch and has been since mid-April, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t see for yourself what the rest of Atlanta has been raving about!

Bacchanalia is located in “midtown west” at 1198 Howell Mill Road. Their phone number is (404) 365-0410. Reservations are a must. Now serving lunch.
from top: Prime beef tartare; Roasted Maine halibut with Oregon morels and sweet peas; Owners/chefs Anne Quatrano & Cliff Harrison; Key lime pie with meringue.