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| Brian Barfield: Vinocity Wine Bar by Meredith Fletcher Executive Chef Brian Barfield of Vinocity is a bass player. He is even a bit handy with the banjo. Lucky for Vinocity, the band gig didn’t pan out, as he is also quite a player in the kitchen. A native of Lithonia, Ga., Barfield needed a part-time job while living in Athens and playing in a band, so he grabbed a position as a dishwasher at a Steak & Ale. Two weeks later, the cook quit, enabling Barfield to move up in the ranks. Later, when the band broke up, Barfield realized he enjoyed the rush of the restaurant business and decided to pursue cooking as a career. Newly married, he moved back to Atlanta and attended the Art Institute. While in school, he cooked at several different establishments, including The Food Business in Decatur, Bistro’s near Ansley Mall (now closed) and Cabernet in Alpharetta. At Bistro’s, Barfield worked as sous chef under executive chef and was “made to do everything.” “I learned all about sauces,” he elaborates, “and became very confident in the kitchen.” As his knowledge and experience grew, Barfield began to find his creative niche. Drawing from a smattering of influences, he assembled a mental menu, tweaking its design by serving it up as the nightly specials. He auditioned for the executive chef position at Vinocity when it opened in August 2002. Barfield describes his menu innovations as “New American” cuisine and says he spends time contemplating how “the plate will balance out.” Portion sizes are substantial – not overwhelming but hearty enough to make the doggie bag necessary. He emphasizes his commitment to fresh, prime ingredients, mentioning that specials are often inspired by the latest arrivals at the DeKalb Farmer’s Market, and stresses the constant goal at Vinocity to create a world-class menu to pair with the exceptional wine list. The menu is altered seasonally. Barfield’s creations are visually dramatic; he vehemently dislikes “flat food.” Plating styles are frequently colorful, even a dish as simple as the sautéed and roasted chicken breast over herbed mashed potatoes with sautéed haricots verts and a sage reduction (essentially chicken, potatoes, green beans) becomes striking through sharp color contrast. Arrangement is equally important; selections such as the roasted Maine lobster tail with saffron risotto and wilted spinach morph into a three-dimensional work of art. But Barfield’s involvement with the kitchen extends beyond the food design. He keeps a figurative hand in every pot to ensure quality of delivery, a dedication that even includes taking out the trash. Barfield is constantly thinking forward, be it smoothing the night ahead for his kitchen staff or challenging himself to constantly improve. “I try to stay open-minded about possibilities,” he says. Along with owners John Turpin, Ian Smith and Jimmy Jones, Barfield is excited about Vinocity’s place in the Midtown scene. “We are here to take care of the palate.” When pressed about his future, Barfield adds that he “wants to cook everywhere.” Let’s hope this act plays at Vinocity for some time. Vinocity is located at 36 13th Street. Their phone number is (404) 870-8886. |
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| Chef Brian Barfield | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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