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Seabiscuit & Wisteria
review by Melissa Libby & Associates

Based on Laura Hillenbrand’s best-selling novel, “Seabiscuit” is an uplifting tale of three lost souls who overcome desperate times by having faith in an unlikely racehorse named Seabiscuit.
The story begins by delving into the lives of three men. With the Great Depression gaining momentum, Johnny “Red” Pollard (Tobey Maguire), a determined jockey and fearless boxer, battles unemployment and poverty. Horse whisperer and cowboy Tom Smith (Chris Cooper) finds his life on the range capsized by intruding highways and barbed fences. Meanwhile, pre-stock market crash millionaire Charles Howard’s (Jeff Bridges) world is turned upside down after his son’s death.

The three men, down on life and luck, gravitate toward each other, attempting to mold a stubborn horse into a blue-ribbon racing champion. Howard, the horse’s owner, sums up the plot when he declares, “Our horse is too small, our jockey is too big, our trainer is too old and I’m too dumb to know the difference!” Overcoming difficult odds, internal strife and physical injury, “Seabiscuit” communicates an inspiring lesson in life: anything is possible if you have faith.

You’ll cry within the first 15 minutes and applaud during the last five. With a PG-13 rating and 140 minutes running time, leave the kids at home and invite your parents instead.

“Seabiscuit” has all the essential ingredients: one part true story, one part history lesson, three parts outstanding acting performances and a dash of good ol’ American spirit. This heartfelt drama is undeniably Oscar-worthy.

After two and a half hours of “’biscuit” references, our stomachs were screaming for some Southern comfort. We turned to a favorite Inman Park restaurant: Wisteria. Although Wisteria doesn’t serve biscuits, the menu embraces an array of sophisticated Southern-style dishes. I love the concept - contemporary American cuisine with a Southern twist.

It’s a sin to dine at Wisteria without ordering the molasses-rubbed pork tenderloin. The juicy and delicately sweet pork is presented over sweet potato soufflé topped with a Vidalia onion, apple and walnut relish ($16.95). My friend chose the pan-seared ahi tuna over wasabi potato dumplings and broccoli raab, shiitake mushrooms and a ginger ponzu sauce ($19.95). Although not superior to the tender molasses-rubbed pork, we both agreed the ahi tuna was beyond heavenly.

The atmosphere is warm and comfortable, yet sophisticated. Exposed brick walls and vivid sunset colors add to the intimate neighborhood feel. The walls are adorned with eye-pleasing paintings by local artist Katie Moriarty.

Wisteria has been on Atlanta’s dining scene for two years now, and with impeccable service, a charming atmosphere and tasty cuisine, it wins the horse race against other neighborhood joints.

Located at 471 North Highland Avenue NE, Wisteria serves dinner Sunday – Thursday from 5:30 – 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5:30 – 11 p.m. All major credit cards are accepted. Reservations are recommended and can be made by calling 404-525-3363. Complimentary valet parking is available.
Southern Cooking with a twist from Wisteria.